While it is true that whales pass through almost the entire coast of southern Africa before migrating with their calves to the southernmost waters, Hermanus is their favorite place. This town has something special to have become the mecca of whale watching in South Africa.
Few travelers resist including Hermanus in their route if they are going to travel to South Africa during the time when humpback and southern right whales stay in its waters to mate and give birth. If you also know for sure that you want to visit Hermanus, here I tell you all the information you need to organize your trip
Where Hermanus is and how to get there
However, I recommend adding a little more than half an hour of driving and going from Cape Town to Hermanus via the R44 road passing through Stony Point, to see the penguins. Although the way is a bit longer, the route is beautiful, as you will drive along Clarence Drive, a scenic road with a mountain pass that connects Gordon’s Bay with Kleinmond. The views of the bay are beautiful and it is worth stopping at all the spots you can, such as the Kogel Bay beach viewpoint or shark point to, with a lot of luck, spot a shark in the distance.
- If you don’t have your own vehicle, a good option is to book an excursion from Cape Town to Hermanus for whale watching there and back in a day.
Map of Hermanus
To help you get your bearings and have everything at hand, here is a map of Hermanus with the places to see and those I talk about in this article:
[googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/embed?mid=1i6G2FkAergfqg3pdwYBrL09_rwHMdkc&ehbc=2E312F&w=640&h=480]When to see whales in Hermanus
The whale watching season in Hermanus is from June to November. It is during those months that the cetaceans approach the waters of Hermanus, rich in plankton, and therefore in krill, the main food for these marine mammals.
And why do whales go to Hermanus? They arrive there to take the necessary time to mate and have their calves. It is not until they are at least three months old, during which time they even double in size, that they leave, continuing their migration towards the cold southern waters of the Antarctic Ocean.
However, sightings are even easier at the end of September and during the month of October when the number of whales that stop in Hermanus multiplies with the arrival of the males.
The species most easily spotted here is the southern right whale which is distinguished by the bumps or callosities on its head. These whales are among the largest, measuring between 13 and 16 meters and weighing around 40 tons. It is also possible to see humpback whales and, with a lot of luck because they spend a long time submerged underwater, Bryde’s whales.
- Do you know how whale calves nurse? A curious fact about southern right whales is that, although the calves feed on mother’s milk during their first year of life, their nursing is very different from that of humans. Instead of sucking from the mother, the whale expels the milk into the water and the calves take it from there.
How and where to see whales in Hermanus
This whale sanctuary that is Hermanus offers the possibility of seeing them not only from the classic boat trip to spot whales, but also from the coast. Yes, simply by sitting on a bench at a viewpoint or walking along a trail you can already be lucky enough to see them jump or at least come up to breathe.
The ideal thing since you are going to Hermanus is to try to see them in both ways. Obviously, remember that they are wild animals in their natural habitat, so no one guarantees sightings. Good luck!
Boat trips
Excursions depart from New Harbour Hermanus, that is, from the new port. There is a designated free car park right where the boats depart. Various operating companies congregate there. Before choosing, I recommend you ensure that your choice practices responsible tourism so as not to disturb the whales; it is they who must voluntarily approach the boat.
The whale watching tour in Hermanus lasts about two hours.
In my case, the price for whale watching in Hermanus was 1,020 rands per person, children up to 12 years old pay 510 rands, and those under 3 years old go free.
Whale season is obviously high season in Hermanus, so I recommend that you book well in advance so you don’t miss out on a spot.
Keep in mind that this activity is 100% dependent on weather conditions. It is quite common for it to be cancelled if it is very windy, raining, or there is a storm. It happened to me and I know of more cases. Therefore, another piece of advice you should definitely follow is to plan your route to stay at least one night in Hermanus. That way, if you are unlucky and your boat doesn’t depart as planned, you will have leeway to do it at another time or the following day. You wouldn’t want to miss out on such an experience for not taking this detail into account.
Luckily, the company I made the initial reservation with gave me my money back and I found another one that did have space the following day. The excursion was a total success, as many as three whales at a time came very close to the boat, allowing us to see them up close. Unforgettable! Also, before boarding, they gave a very interesting short talk sharing curiosities about these cetaceans.
Whale-watching trip with children
If you are going to South Africa with children and want to do this activity, I recommend it wholeheartedly. That said, before you book, make sure the boat accepts children, because I saw some, such as RIBs and sailing boats, that would not take them depending on their age, being that bit riskier.
Children have to wear the life jacket they are handed as they board. My boat was perfect for them because they could see the whales without being picked up, and yet the sides were high enough that there was no way they could fall into the water. If you are travelling with a baby, and mine was a year and a half old, I recommend taking a baby carrier so you do not miss a thing and can move quickly from one side of the boat to the other if you need to. Ours fell asleep while my partner was sitting down and things got complicated. If you have a pushchair, leave it in the car, because there will not be much room on the boat.
By kayak
If you want to experience something even more intense and close-up, there is the option of doing a kayak tour for whale watching in Hermanus. The route runs parallel to the cliffs and the price is 450 rands per person, around 24 euros. If you are interested, write to me and I will send you the direct contact of the company that does it.
Spots to see whales in Hermanus on foot
In my specific case, I wasn’t lucky enough to spot whales in Hermanus from the coast, although I did so at another point in South Africa, in Tsitsikamma. Yes, there are more places in the country where you can see them without taking a boat, such as Cape of Good Hope, St. Lucia or in the De Hoop nature reserve, although, in theory, not as easily.
In Hermanus, the combination of the high number of specimens that congregate, plus the shallow depth of the plankton-rich waters of Walker Bay, makes it relatively easy to see them on foot from the mainland.
A sign of the importance of the Hermanus coast as a whale watching spot is that there is a path of up to 12 kilometers that borders the cliffs from New Harbour, the new harbor where the boats depart, to Grotto Beach, an impressive virgin sandy area. This stunning scenic route is called the Hermanus Cliff Path Walk and it is a protected area as it is located within the Fernkloof Nature Reserve.
The path is set up so it can be completed in full, and there are even many sections accessible for people with mobility issues or for strollers. The route is dotted with benches and viewpoints to focus on the sea and its most famous inhabitants. With luck, a little patience and, if you have them, some good binoculars, you can even see several whales very close to the coast.
Here are the most famous spots and sections of the Hermanus Cliff Path:
Gearing’s Point
The most famous and central viewpoint in Hermanus offers very good views of the bay thanks to its elevated position. Gearing’s Point, located next to the old harbor, was the place where fishermen used to gather in the past to watch the arrival of boats and scan their catches.
There is a parking lot in front of the sea; if it’s very windy or raining, you can park and wait, looking through the glass to see if a whale jumps in the distance.
You will also find benches to make the wait more comfortable. Oh, don’t just look for whales, as it’s also possible to see sea lions and dolphins, for example.
Here the whales compete with the works of art, and there are several sculptures distributed along the path that starts to the right of the viewpoint. An open-air art gallery where hyraxes, small mammals that look like giant rodents that you will surely see in other spots in South Africa among the rocks, also easily cross your path.
From Gearing’s Point to New Harbour
If you don’t want to do all 12 kilometers of the Hermanus coastal path, an easy and very beautiful section to do is the one that goes from the Gearing’s Point viewpoint to the new harbor where the excursion boats depart.
It’s only three kilometers and along the way you’ll pass good locations for whale watching in Hermanus such as Fick’s Pool and Rietfontein.
From Gearing’s Point to Grotto Beach
In the opposite direction, you will also find highlighted spots to stay for a while looking at the sea with camera in hand. Note the most recommended ones: Siever’s Point, Kwaaiwater and Voëlklip beach.
After this last one, you will reach Grotto Beach, a spectacular beach that becomes a virgin sandy area embracing the bay. Besides being able to see whales very close from the shore (as the folks from Bona Vida Travel saw them), it is a perfect place to watch the sunset in Hermanus.
Other ideas of things to do in Hermanus
If you are looking for more things to see in Hermanus beyond the whales, here are some ideas, although let’s admit it, people come here to get their fill of cetaceans.
Much to see in Old Harbour
Right in the center of Hermanus, in the old harbour you have several things to do. You can start by visiting the Whale Museum, the Hermanus whale museum where you can learn a lot about these marine mammals. Additionally, they have a skeleton of a southern right whale that was found stranded on Onrus beach in 2003.
Next door, you can also take a look at the Old Harbour Museum, this exhibition of old boats used by fishermen. Without leaving, take advantage of the entrance fee which is also valid to access the photographic museum where you can take a brief look at the history of Hermanus through old photos.
View Hermanus from above
Take the car and drive up to the Rotary Way Hermanus Lookout which offers great panoramic views of the town, the bay and even Gansbaai, famous for being home to the great white shark.
Hiking
If you feel like doing some trekking beyond the coastal path, take note of the Three Dams Hike which runs through the Fernkloof Nature Reserve. It is a moderate hike of about three kilometers that takes you to three dams.
Wine tourism
There are many wineries in Hermanus (below in ‘where to eat’ I tell you about the one I visited) distributed throughout the Hemel-en-Aarde wine valley. You can choose between simple wine tastings, combined with all kinds of things, tapas and even chocolate! You also have options to visit the vineyards and go hiking.
To avoid car trouble and be responsible, a good idea is to take one of the wine tours with Wine Hoppers who handle the transfers.
- The most famous wine tourism area in South Africa is Stellenbosch. You can visit it from Cape Town with this private tour to the Stellenbosch vineyards where you will be accompanied by a Spanish-speaking guide.
Excursions from Hermanus
There are several interesting things to see in the surroundings. Here are some ideas:
-Visit the penguins of Stony Point
An hour from Hermanus, in the town of Betty’s Bay, within the Cape Nature nature reserve lives a colony of small African penguins that you cannot miss. Access to Stony Point is regulated with an entrance fee of 30 rand for adults and 20 rand for children. It is not included in the Wild Card.
The hours to access the boardwalks from which you can see the penguins are from 8 am to 4 pm. Don’t limit yourself to just the boardwalks; to the left of the entrance, there is a small path where with luck you can see more penguins without having to pay. There is free parking and a small cafe-restaurant.
– Head to Cape Agulhas
If you’re excited about seeing the exact point where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet, you have to go to Cape Agulhas. Additionally, this place is the southernmost point of the entire African continent, a geographical merit that many mistakenly attribute to the Cape of Good Hope.
From Hermanus, it’s a 1:45 drive to get there. If you don’t plan on staying overnight in Hermanus, you can take this excursion to Cape Agulhas that departs from Cape Town and also passes through Hermanus and Stony Point.
-Go to Gansbaai, home of sharks
Many people go from Hermanus to Gansbaai attracted by the promise of seeing the feared great white shark up close. The activity consists of putting you in a metal cage, submerging you under the sea and attracting the shark with chum. This last detail is what makes this sighting not responsible at all, nor recommended, as it interferes with the shark’s way of feeding.
Where to stay in Hermanus
In my case, the two nights I spent in Hermanus with my partner and my three children were in a home exchange house near Onrus beach. A beautiful house with a very pleasant garden where we also enjoyed having a barbecue.
Do you know how home exchange works? If you've never heard of this cooperative accommodation model that lets you travel the world staying in other people's homes while someone else stays in yours, have a look at this in-depth article where I explain how home exchange works. I always use the HomeExchange platform: for the price of a yearly subscription, which in many cases is what one night in a hotel would cost you, you can make as many reciprocal exchanges as you like, or as many as your guestpoints allow.
If you don’t feel like using home exchange, don’t worry because the offer of hotels in Hermanus is so large that it is almost overwhelming. To save you time, after having searched, here are two different accommodation options that have very good reviews:
–Auberge Burgundy Boutique Hotel & Spa It is the hotel where I would definitely have stayed if I didn’t have a home exchange. It is beautiful, with terraces and courtyards that invite you to rest, a pool to cool off in if you go in summer and very elegant rooms. In addition to having breakfast included, another point in its favor is the location in front of Gearing’s Point.
–Hermanus Backpackers & Budget Accommodation If you are looking for something very budget-friendly, this hostel is for you. From only about €30 a night, you have a double room with a shared bathroom, but there are also ones with a private bathroom for a little more. It is right in the center of Hermanus and also has a pool.
–Beachfront House – Hermanus Whale View For those who want to have much more space than a hotel room, privacy, and their own kitchen, this three-bedroom villa with a garden and sea views is a real delight.
Where to eat in Hermanus
The offer of restaurants in Hermanus is so wide and varied that you will find it hard to choose. To give you a hand, here are the two places I tried and really liked, as well as some others I couldn’t visit but heard great things about.
A very special place on the shores of Onrus beach, right where the river of the same name flows into it. Milk on the Beach has a great vibe and two levels: a restaurant on the upper terrace and a sweet stand with direct access to the shore. I enjoyed both and that’s why I recommend it.
The pokes were delicious, the fried fish dishes were worth it, and the waffles from the stand satisfy those with a sweet tooth. They are also famous for their cocktails, although I didn’t try them.
The sandy area of Onrus is very beautiful, ideal for disconnecting while watching the surfers. From there, a coastal path starts that you can walk to reach the nearby Sandbaai beach.
From the coast to the interior for a totally different gastronomic plan. Welcome to wine tourism! In case you didn’t know, South Africa is a land of wines. In Hermanus there are several wineries, I suggest going to Bosman, a beautiful estate among vineyards, with views of the Hemel-en-Aarde valley, where they have a small and charming venue with wooden beams and a porch that invites relaxation (in my case, it sheltered us from the rain).
The tasting of 4 wines, accompanied by their corresponding explanation, cost 100 rands, around 5 euros. They have a snack menu full of delicious tapas-style options, enough to fill you up, and above all at a good price.
Also, if you are going to travel to South Africa with children, as was my case, they have a very nice wooden playground under a large tree and specific menu options for them.
They also organize hiking routes that end with a glass of good wine.
South Africa is clearly a carnivorous destination, gastronomically speaking, so maybe you’ll want a change of scenery. A restaurant in Hermanus famous for the quality of its fresh fish and seafood is The Rock.
But the place is not only recommended for its food, but also for its location at the top of a cliff next to Hermanus harbor, from where the excursion boats depart. Thanks to its panoramic views of Walker Bay, during whale season, you can even see them breaching while waiting for your dish to arrive.
Keep reading about South Africa: Travel to South Africa: practical guide Hotels in South Africa What to see in Cape Town Guide to visiting Table Mountain The best day trips from Cape Town Visiting the Cape of Good Hope What to see on the Panorama Route Wild Card, is it worth it? South Africa with kids 10 restaurants in South Africa to go with kids Guide to traveling to Eswatini Hlane National Park Hermanus, the paradise of whales
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