If you are going to travel to South Africa, or neighboring Mozambique, I without hesitation recommend that you include Eswatini, the former Swaziland, in your route. Although if you feel like living a different adventure in a destination that is not very crowded and less conventional, why not spend your entire vacation visiting Eswatini?
Whether you plan to spend only a few days in the middle of your route through South Africa, or if you feel like exploring it in full, here is a lot of information and advice about Eswatini that will surely come in handy.
Facts and curiosities about Eswatini
- The official currency of Eswatini is the lilangeni (1= €0.05) although the South African rand is accepted everywhere.
- Eswatini is the last kingdom in all of Africa with the only absolute monarchy and one of the last in the entire world.
- Mswati III has total power as head of state and government of Eswatini, since 1986 when he inherited it from his father. He is one of the richest kings in the world.
- In a country where polygamy is legal, this powerful monarch flaunts practicing it, as he has 15 wives and more than thirty grandchildren.
- In 2018, the monarch changed the name of the country from Swaziland to Eswatini, which means “place of the Swazis”. This decision was made to honor the Swazi people and to eliminate any reference to the British colonial era.
- Approximately 85% of the population belongs to the Swazis of the Bantu ethnic group.
- The Umhlanga, or Reed Dance, is a traditional ceremony in which, once a year, thousands of Swazi girls parade and dance with reeds to honor the king.
- It is the country with the highest HIV rate in the world, 27% of the population in 2021, according to UNAIDS.
- Eswatini is the smallest country in southern Africa with an area of only 17,364 km².
- Sugar cane production is one of the pillars of its economy.
How to get to Eswatini
Eswatini has two international airports, Matsapha and King Mswati III which opened in 2014. However, there are no direct flights from Spain to Eswatini; instead, you will have to make a layover in South Africa and then, for example, take one of the flights from the low-cost airline AirLink.
If you are wondering how to enter Eswatini by land, it depends on your origin. If you are driving from South Africa you can cross through one of the eleven border posts, while if you do it from Mozambique you will have only two options to cross.
- If you are traveling through Mozambique and don’t want to miss the chance to get to know this unusual destination, take a look at this private tour to Eswatini that departs from Maputo. In addition, you will be accompanied by a Spanish-speaking guide.
Most travelers come from the north, from Kruger, and in that case, the most common way is to enter through the Mananga border which is open from 7:00 to 18:00 hours.
Afterward, almost all tourists continue their route south and re-enter South Africa to go to St. Lucia, crossing the Golela/Lavumisa post whose hours are from 7:00 to 22:00 hours.
Those are the two border posts I crossed during my trip. However, depending on your itinerary, check which entry suits you best. For example, coming from Kruger, some people decide to enter Eswatini via the Matsamo/Jeppe’s Reef post to visit Matsamo Cultural Village and learn more about the culture and traditions of the Swazi people.
Keep border operating hours closely in mind if you don’t want to arrive and be stranded. The hours I have provided were the ones in effect in October 2022 when I crossed. I recommend checking them before going.
Requirements to enter Eswatini
To visit Eswatini, European Union citizens need:
-A valid Passport with at least three months of validity.
-Pay an entry fee of 100 rands, approximately €6, per car, not per person. They only accept card payments. It is important to keep the receipt safe because they will ask for it when leaving the country.
-If you enter by car, when booking the rental car, make sure to pay the cross border, the extra fee that allows you to drive your vehicle outside of South Africa. It is essential. At the border, they will ask for the car papers to record the license plate. Remember to bring your international driver’s license because they might ask for it.
-As of November 2023, a COVID certificate, test, or PCR test is no longer needed.
Are vaccinations required?
If you’re wondering which vaccines are needed to enter Eswatini, the answer is none. As of today, March 2023, no mandatory vaccines are required to visit the former Swaziland. However, I recommend visiting an international vaccination center or a travel clinic to travel to Eswatini with all the guarantees and advice from a specialist.
Additionally, there, depending on your route and the time of year you travel, they will give you the necessary recommendations on the suitability of taking malaria prophylaxis or not, as Eswatini is a risk area.
However, if you are also traveling to Eswatini and South Africa with children, as was my case, they will most likely be given the Hepatitis A vaccine.
If you have previously been to a destination where there is yellow fever, you will have to present the vaccination certificate.
If you have doubts about the quality of healthcare in Eswatini, you should know that it is much more modest and limited than in South Africa, where you would be transferred in case of gravity. In Manzini, there are two private hospitals, Matsapha Health Care and Manzini Clinic Private Hospital. There is also a medical center in Mbabane.
For this reason, and many others, it is highly recommended to be covered by a good travel insurance policy that gives you peace of mind. I use Mondo which, in addition to having quite complete coverage at a very good price, me gusta because in their app you have a 24-hour medical chat that can be very helpful in certain circumstances. Take advantage now because until April 2nd you have a 15% discount on travel insurance for being a reader.
What is the best time to travel to Eswatini
Eswatini has a subtropical climate, which means temperatures are warm throughout the year. However, the best time to travel to Eswatini is from late May to early October, when temperatures are more pleasant, it’s not as hot, and it’s the dry season.
The rainy season in the former Swaziland runs from October to April. I was there in mid-October and had no problems, although it’s true there was a storm the day before.
However, you should keep in mind that during the rainy months it is more difficult to spot animals, as they take shelter from the water. Additionally, there can be flooding, tracks get muddy, and a 4×4 becomes essential for visiting reserves and parks, though not for traveling by road.
Driving in Eswatini
First of all, keep in mind that driving is on the left. Remember that you should carry an international driving permit. I was stopped at a police checkpoint and they did ask for it.
Until a while ago, the state of the roads in Eswatini had a very bad reputation for being riddled with large holes (potholes). Now the situation is quite different; at least the main road that crosses the country from north to south is in very good condition and looked like it had been paved not long ago. Even so, don’t be surprised if you suddenly find a pothole.
In any case, drive with caution because many people walk along the edges of the roads. Besides, you are in Africa and it is not uncommon for any animal, whether wild or livestock, to suddenly cross in front of your car. On the other hand, heavy truck traffic transporting sugar cane can also be a risk factor.
Try to reach your destination always before sunset because driving at night in Eswatini is not recommended.
If you are going to rent a car and you go outside the rainy season, you can go with a normal vehicle, although a higher one is better, especially for spotting animals. In my case, I was driving a Toyota Rumion and it’s true that in some sections of a Hlane track a 4×4 would have been useful, but that was because it had rained quite a bit before we arrived.
As I mentioned before, remember to request permission from the car rental company to cross the border and drive in Eswatini; they call it a border cross and it has an extra cost.
Safety
Since 2021, the country has been experiencing a tense social and political situation resulting in some conflicts, riots, and attacks according to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs website. But in the tourist areas, which are likely where you will visit, the situation is normal.
What to see in Eswatini
Despite its small size, Eswatini has plenty of attractions to hook the traveler. Here are some of them:
- Hlane National Park. Undoubtedly, it is a must-see place in Eswatini. Hlane is the jewel in the crown of the country, quite literally, as it used to be a royal hunting ground, which is why the word ‘royal’ remains in the park’s official name. Here you can see a lot of wildlife, but the rhinos, white and black, and the lions get all the praise.
- Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. There are many animals, but none of the Big Five, so the safaris will be quieter. It’s a good place to take a mini-break within the trip, all in an environment with great ecological awareness.
- Mkhaya Game Reserve. To round off the list of places for safaris in Eswatini, you have this small and strict reserve where you can ‘easily’ see the black rhino. However, you cannot drive yourself here, only go on guided safaris, and children under ten are not admitted.
- Ezulwini Valley: this beautiful valley, draped in green and dotted with large boulders, is known for its magnificent natural landscapes and cultural activities. Viewpoints, waterfalls, and hiking trails await you.
- Maguga Falls: these small but charming waterfalls are located on the Komati River in the west of the country.
- Malolotja National Park. Not enough is said about the country’s largest protected area, featuring a spectacular variety of landscapes and Malolotja Falls, the highest in all of Eswatini at almost 90 meters.
Things to keep in mind…
I shouldn’t forget to give you a couple of tips for traveling to Eswatini that I still have up my sleeve.
If you are coming from South Africa with a SIM card with data to connect to the Internet, keep in mind that shortly after crossing the border it will stop working. You will have to wait until you reach accommodation with WIFI to connect again.
If you bought the Wild Card, a tourist card that gives access to South Africa’s national parks and many reserves for a year, you’re in luck! The Wild Card is valid for entry to Hlane Royal National Park, Mlilwane, and the Mkhaya Game Reserve.
In some accommodations in Hlane or Mkhaya there is no electricity, so bring everything fully charged and carry extra batteries to survive.
Sigue leyendo sobre Sudáfrica: Viajar a Sudáfrica:guía práctica Hoteles en Sudáfrica Qué ver en Ciudad del Cabo Guía para visitar Table Mountain Las mejores excursiones desde Ciudad del Cabo Visitar el Cabo de Buena Esperanza Qué ver en la Ruta Panorama Wild Card ¿merece la pena? Sudáfrica con niños 10 restaurantes en Sudáfrica para ir con niños Guía para viajar a Esuatini Hlane National Park Hermanus, el paraíso de las ballenas
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