Lamego awaits you with open arms to show you that Portugal does not only live on big cities like Lisbon, Porto, or Braga. Small, but dotted with attractions, this town, a crossroads to Santiago de Compostela, accumulates reasons for you to dedicate at least one day of your route if you are thinking of traveling to Portugal by car. History, heritage, culture, and wine tourism, all located in a beautiful enclave among hills very close to the banks of the Douro River. Discover what to see in Lamego, as well as all the practical details you need to easily prepare for your visit.
Where is Lamego located?
This small and unknown Portuguese city belongs to the district of Viseu and is located in the north of Portugal, in the Trás-Os-Montes region. To easily place Lamego on the map, draw an imaginary straight line from Porto inwards following the course of the Douro River and there you can put the pin.
Just an hour and a half by car from Porto, Lamego is a small treat within the famed Douro Valley where Peso da Régua, Pinhão, or Vila Nova de Gaia also stand out. However, unlike these latter ones, the city of Lamego is not bathed by the waters of the Douro River, but is located just over 10 kilometers from the bank.
What to see in Lamego
Getting to know Lamego is immersing oneself in centuries of history, as Romans, Visigoths, Arabs, and Christians passed through here. During the Middle Ages, this Portuguese corner was a strategic enclave both militarily and religiously. Lamego is an important pilgrimage destination and a crossroads to Santiago de Compostela. Both the Portuguese interior way and the unknown Camino de Torres that starts from Salamanca pass through its lands.
Here I tell you what to see in Lamego so as not to miss anything after having visited it on my own. If you go on your own, start at Loja Interativa de Turismo, the Tourist Office, located at Rua Regimento de Infantaria, 9, where you can plan your visit thanks to their advice. But if you want to have a guide explain many things about this town and its history in English, the best thing is to take the free tour of Lamego.
Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios
If you have been to Braga, you surely know the famous Bom Jesus sanctuary and its photogenic white staircase. Lamego directly competes with this well-known Portuguese city with a very similar place, the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios. At the top of Mount St. Stephen, in the same place where a small chapel once stood in the 14th century, this beautiful sanctuary now rises with a lovely white facade finished in granite that boasts of being a perfect mix between Baroque and Rococo styles.
The sanctuary began construction in 1750 and was completed in 1905. Inside, you can find a wood-carved image of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios from the 16th century where she appears breastfeeding the child. To get there by walking, you must climb more than 600 steps via a monumental staircase decorated with impressive azulejos from the historic Carvalhinho Gaia factory. Between sections, fountains, sculptures, and even a small chapel make the ascent an essential journey if you visit Lamego.
Right after leaving the temple, there is a small esplanade after descending the first steps known as Pátio dos Reis, the Kings’ Courtyard, whose protagonist is the fountain of giants topped by a large obelisk 15 meters high. Around it, stone sculptures of the 18 former kings of Israel watch over you. Both the staircase and the fountain are the work of the famed Italian architect and painter Nicolau Nasoni.
In addition, in the surroundings, a small forest gives a bucolic touch to the place with grottoes and small lakes that you will find if you go into the trails. Although you can reach the sanctuary by car and park next to a chestnut tree almost 800 years old, classified as a tree of public interest, it is most recommended to go up the stairs. However, currently (January 2022), the last section connecting to Dr. Alfredo Sousa Avenue, Lamego’s main artery, was closed for works, so while they finish, it will be helpful to use a vehicle to get there.
Lamego Cathedral
Nicolau Nasoni not only left his mark on the sanctuary but also wanted to do so on Lamego Cathedral. So when you enter, look up because, in the early 18th century, the Italian decorated the interior ceilings of the temple with frescoes depicting episodes from the Old Testament.
That said, the origin of Lamego Cathedral dates back to the 12th century, when the Romanesque tower was built. Later, elements of other styles such as late Gothic and Renaissance were added, which are visible on the facade and in the cloister; you will even see Baroque notes in the altarpieces.
Ribeiro Conceição Theatre
It was built in the 18th century as a hospital and remained so until in 1896 it became a military barracks, but barely a year later, the building was consumed by fire in a huge blaze. In 1924, Commander José Ribeiro Conceição decided to rebuild it, but this time to house a spectacular theater that, today, bears his name and has become a cultural reference in the region.
From plays to concerts, including even movies and exhibitions, all that can be seen in the Ribeiro Conceicao Theater which now looks more beautiful than ever since its last renovation in 2008.
Lamego Museum
Unfortunately, the Lamego Museum is closed for a titanic restoration project that should finish at the end of 2022. By then, you will be able to walk through the interior of this beautiful 18th-century episcopal palace and admire a multitude of works of art, from paintings like the most famous ones by Grão Vasco, to Flemish tapestries, even a collection of Baroque chapels from the old Chagas convent. It also features archaeological pieces, ceramics, and furniture of great interest.
After exploring the lower area, start the climb to the upper part of Lamego through Rua de Almacave, and along the way, don’t miss the churches of San Francisco and Santa María de Almacave.
Lamego Upper District
Once at the top, dedicate some time to wandering through the oldest area of Lamego, entering the walled enclosure through the Porta dos Figos. As soon as you cross it, turn around, look up, and discover an ancient oratory, a curious architectural element that served to venerate Nossa Senhora da Guia. The current one is restored and painted red, but the original dates back to the 8th century.
Porta dos Figos Archaeological Site
Right next to it is the entrance to the Porta dos Figos archaeological site where you can discover, at a glance, how Lamego has evolved throughout history. Did you know that the Romans were settled here? Inside you will find a site where various remains of the past have been recovered, from the remnants of a medieval cemetery to an important collection of Roman coins, some even from the 4th century, as well as ceramic pieces. Entry is free.
Lamego Castle
Upon leaving, retrace your steps a bit to reach the castle’s keep, whose earliest reference dates back to the 10th century and regained importance in 1607 when Ferdinand the Great conquered it as a symbol of his victory over Muslim rule.
Currently you can enter the grounds for free from 10 am to 6 pm. Inside, only the tower and the wall remain, which you can also walk along. The views from the top are worth it and give you an idea of why, in the Middle Ages, Lamego was so important at a strategic and military level during the Christian expansion.
Medieval Cistern and Wall
Protected by the medieval wall that embraces the upper part of Lamego, you will find a very curious place that you cannot miss. It is a medieval cistern dating from the 13th century that was used to collect rainwater through the holes in the ceiling to later supply the city.
It is one of the most prominent and best-preserved medieval cisterns on the peninsula. From the outside it won’t catch your eye much, but once inside you’ll be surprised to find an immense rectangular granite enclosure seven meters high with a rib vault and about 20 meters long. It was restored in 2013 and it is now possible to visit it for free and go down to the bottom via a small staircase where you will see a photographic exhibition.
Plenty to see and do around Lamego
Wine tourism in Lamego: from winery to winery
Remember that you are in the Douro Valley and in these parts, that is synonymous with wine country. So if you like the subject, you can lose yourself among vineyards, taste different wines, and even, if you travel between September and October, enjoy the grape harvests.
Did you know that it is believed that the famous Port wine originated in Lamego? This famous fine wine is said to have been born in a monastery in this town when the monks decided to add brandy to the wine to stop the fermentation process and preserve it better until it reached Porto by rabelo boats on the river. The same technique was later copied by the English who used brandy to obtain the sweeter wine we now know as Port wine.
Now there are many wineries you can visit and even stay in some, such as the luxurious Quinta Da Pacheca hotel on the banks of the Douro River. If your budget doesn’t allow for sleeping in one of its barrel-shaped rooms, you can simply take the guided tour of the Quinta da Pacheca winery with tasting included from €15.
Raposeira cava is also very famous here, with more than 120 years of tradition. If you are interested in learning more about this sparkling wine, you can, from Tuesday to Saturday, visit the winery and the caves excavated into the granite mountain itself where the cava rests.
Serras das Meadas Biological Park
If you feel like immersing yourself in the area’s nature, head to the Serra das Meadas biological park just over ten minutes from the center of Lamego by car. Located in a mountainous area filled with pines, oaks, and birches, this park was founded in 2002 with a clear concept of environmental education and preservation, which is why they offer workshops and talks and even have an organic garden.
After paying a symbolic entry fee of three euros, you can walk along a beautiful three-kilometer trail during which you will see animals that have arrived there from various conservation centers, such as eagles, owls, deer, fallow deer, foxes… It is a good plan to do with children in Lamego. It is open every day from 10 am to 7 pm in spring and summer, and until 4:30 pm in autumn and winter. Keep in mind that the last entry is one hour before closing.
Iberian Mask Interpretation Center
20 minutes from Lamego, in the parish of Lazarim, there is a most interesting place: the Iberian Mask Interpretation Center (CIMI). In this curious museum, they collect masks and traditional costumes of carnival and entroido from both Portugal and Spain to give them the heritage and cultural value they deserve, as well as to study their meanings and delve into their history. The Lazarim CIMI, opened in 2016, is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm and is located on Rua José de Castro.
If you go at the end of February or early March (depending on the year), you can attend the entroido of the Mascarados de Lazarim when caretos and senhorinhas take to the streets with their peculiar outfits and their faces hidden by handcrafted wooden masks. It is then that this small parish becomes the focus of attention during the two major celebrations that make up the entroido.
Route through the Val do Varosa
If you stay more than one day in Lamego, you shouldn’t miss taking the car and getting lost in the Varosa valley, following the course of the river of the same name and traveling back in time to where the Cistercian order was formed. Under the name Val do Varosa a network of monuments is encompassed, led by the most prominent of all, the Monastery of São João de Tarouca, the first Cistercian monastery in Portugal whose construction dates back to the 11th century. After the main course, the Convent of Santo António de Ferreirim, the fortified bridge of Ucanha, the Monastery of Santa Maria de Salzedas and the Chapel of São Pedro de Balsemão await you.
You can choose to visit them separately by paying three euros at each of the monuments, except for the bridge and the chapel which are free, or get the common ticket for seven euros which gives you the right to enter all of them. There is also another entry for 9 euros that also includes the Lamego Museum (temporarily closed for works until the end of 2022).
How much time do you need to visit Lamego
While you can visit the essential places to see in Lamego in half a day, try to dedicate more time in your itinerary to savor it calmly and taste other dishes beyond the basic daily menu. This way, you will have the opportunity to enjoy not only its historic center and the famous Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, but also other nearby attractions that are very interesting.
If you organize yourself well, with a full day, you can have time to contemplate vineyards and taste wine in one of its wineries. If you also decide to stay overnight in Lamego, in two days you will be able to discover the architectural secrets hidden in the interesting Varosa Valley, visit the Iberian Mask Interpretive Center (CIMI) in Lazarim, or recharge your batteries in nature walking through the Serra Das Meadas biological park.
What and where to eat in Lamego
Get ready to enjoy the gastronomy of this Portuguese corner, especially if you like meat because one of its specialties, in addition to sausages, is the roasted kid goat which I highly recommend. I tried it at restaurant A Nave (Avenida 5 de Outubro, 79), a very, very simple place, with a short menu, but with the most delicious homemade food and at a very good price. Watch out for the portions because they are very generous and, in the case of meats, they are accompanied by a large bowl of white rice and also potatoes. The half portion of kid, the most expensive item they offered, was €10 and was very good.
One of the specialties of its cuisine is the bolas de Lamego, a type of empanada that is traditionally filled with ham, but can also be filled with cod or sardines. A good place to try them could be at the historic Pastelaria da Sé (R. dos Loureiros 24), right on the side of Lamego Cathedral. If you prefer sweets, this is also your place because you will find a wide repertoire of pastries and small sweet bites to try.
Where to stay in Lamego
On this occasion, the visit was a day trip from Amarante, so I cannot recommend a specific accommodation. However, although the city is small Lamego’s hotel offer is very complete and has very refined options if you feel like treating yourself. You can stay in the heart of the center in apartments such as O Cantinho do Colégio, from €61 per night, to charming hotels such as Douro Castelo Signature with a pool from €122 and walk to any of the points of interest. And if you want to get away a bit, spectacular quintas surrounded by vineyards await you, which also offer spa options and even boast organic gardens and places that exude history and luxury such as Six Senses Douro Valley (not suitable for all budgets).
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