With a medieval heart but a cutting-edge soul, Graz, the capital of the Austrian state of Styria, offers a most attractive cocktail of contrasts.
The grandeur of Vienna and Salzburg steals tourists and compliments away from little Graz. However, this charming and lesser-known Austrian city has plenty of charms to shine on its own. Its small size makes it ideal for a weekend getaway, although if you want to make the most of it and enjoy its exceptional cultural and gastronomic offer, you will need more days.
That’s why, if you have one or two weeks, you can set up a road trip through Austria to visit Graz, Vienna, Salzburg, the Danube Valley and Wachau, Hallstatt, and Innsbruck, for example.
Essentials to see in Graz
But as it is perhaps most common for you to be looking for places to see in Graz in one or two days, here are the most highlighted spots to enjoy this Austrian gem, in which many see a certain Italian air.
Antes de organizar tu viaje a Graz... No olvides contratar un seguro de viajes. Y es que aunque puedas usar la tarjeta sanitaria europea, ésta no garantiza siempre la gratuidad de la asistencia médica, ni cubre otros imprevistos como regreso anticipado por enfermedad, robo, pérdida de equipaje y muchas otras cosas más. Te recomiendo Mondo que además, por ser lector de ese blog, te ofrece un 5% de descuento en el seguro de viaje. Desde solo 16 € ya tendrías una póliza para toda uns semana en Austria. ¿De verdad te vas a arriesgar por ahorrarte esa cantidad?
A World Heritage Old Town
The waters of the Mur River divide Graz and caress a medieval historic center so delightful that it truly deserves to be explored calmly. Thus, strolling through its cobbled alleys, you will follow the trail of the Habsburg dynasty and fall hopelessly in love with its diverse collection of Renaissance, Gothic, Baroque and even Art Nouveau facades.
This interesting architectural mix was partly responsible for Graz’s historic center, known as Altstadt, being named a World Heritage Site in 1999.
Take note of some of the places in Graz’s historic center to see:
Hauptplatz
The heart of Graz is this lively square where the absolute protagonist is the city hall building, called Rathaus there, built at the beginning of the 19th century to replace the previous two that had become too small. Its beautiful Renaissance-style facade captures all eyes, many to admire its three domes, but also others to check the time on the central clock.
In addition to contemplating the city hall, it is worth stopping at Hauptplatz to get a feel for Graz. There you will see trams passing by, admire the huge central statue dedicated to Archduke Johann, and you can recharge your batteries by having something to eat at one of the food stalls.
Landhaus Building
Continue walking along Herrengasse street, the city’s main artery, to visit the Landhaus building, one of those responsible for that Italian air in Graz which, today, houses the regional parliament. It was precisely an Italian military architect, Domenico dell’Allio, who, in the mid-16th century, designed this Landhaus, a Renaissance-style beauty with a stunning three-story arcaded courtyard.
Since you are there, you might be interested in visiting Landeszeughaus, the Styrian Armoury museum in Graz which holds a massive collection of medieval armor, swords, and weaponry. The entrance fee is €11 for adults and free for those under 19.
The Painted House
Without leaving the elegant Herrengasse street, look up so as not to miss another gem to see in Graz: the Herzogshof building, also known as The Painted House. Its facade had already been painted around 1600 by Giovanni Pietro de Pomis. However, his work was hidden forever when, in 1742, the Baroque painter Johann Mayer covered it with the beautiful and colorful frescoes that you can admire today.
If you look closely, you can distinguish the repertoire of gods and goddesses of Greco-Roman mythology that Mayer spread across the facade, such as Apollo, Vulcan, Minerva, Bacchus, or Jupiter, among others.
Mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II
Currently, it is not possible to visit the inside of this mausoleum, as it remains closed until March 30, 2023, when it is scheduled to reopen. However, even if you cannot access the crypt where the remains of Emperor Ferdinand II and his family lie, nor admire its frescoes or the ceiling painting of its great vault, it is still worth contemplating from the outside.
And the mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II, located at Burgergasse 1 and attached to the Church of St. Catherine, is part of the complex known as ‘The Crown of Graz‘ along with the cathedral, the Burg (castle), the old university, and the seminary. Take a walk around the exterior to contemplate its Mannerist-style facade, which once again brings a little piece of Italy to this corner of Austria.
The Staircase of Reconciliation
A stone’s throw from the mausoleum, as I mentioned before, is the castle where you will find another of the essentials to see in Graz: the Burg’s double spiral staircase or the staircase of reconciliation as it is known in the city.
It is one of the most prominent Gothic staircases in Europe, a double spiral staircase with two flights in opposite directions that separate and join in an enigmatic way. So special is this 15th-century stone staircase that it is considered an architectural masterpiece.
The entrance is at Hofgasse, 15 and access is free.
Go up to explore Schlossberg Hill
This old fortress, which has become a symbol of Graz’s resistance for withstanding Napoleon’s attack, can be reached in three different ways. The only way you don’t have to pay for is to climb up on foot, overcoming the 260 steps that take you to the nearly 500 meters of height that the hill has.
If you are in a hurry, the fastest way is to take the glass elevator which literally goes up through a shaft excavated in the stone heart of the hill in just 30 seconds. This impressive elevator is taken at Schloßbergplatz and leaves you practically at the doors of the Clock Tower. The journey costs €1.90.
The third option, which is the one I used, is the Schlossbergbahn, a historic 19th-century funicular. My recommendation is that you go up in this red funicular for €2.70. In addition to saving your legs from an exhausting 60% incline, you treat your eyes to beautiful views of Graz during the climb. Furthermore, you will then take a walk through the gardens of Schlossberg hill to the tower.
Once at the top of Schlossberg hill, the best viewpoint in Graz awaits you in a forest full of surprises such as a surprising Chinese pavilion and beautiful gardens to walk through. From the Schlossberg viewpoint, you can contemplate the sea of red roofs of Graz at your feet. If you go at sunset, those roofs catch fire and this Austrian city seems to become magical.
Clock Tower
At the viewpoint you can admire Graz’s most famous monument up close: the Clock Tower. This fortified medieval tower with a wooden walkway surrounding it houses three bells. The oldest of the three, and in the entire city, dates from 1385 and was rung to mark the hours. The second, known as the fire bell, was rung only to warn in case of fire. And the third had two uses that changed with history; at first, it was rung during executions. Years later, it went from ringing for those dead to doing so to warn of the curfew, earning the name ‘the rogues’ bell’.
Another curiosity of the Graz Clock Tower, known as Uhrturm, is that the hands of its large clock are ‘exchanged’; the longest one indicates the hours and the shortest one the minutes.
Kunsthaus Graz, the contemporary art museum
In the heart of the city, on the banks of the Mur River, amidst a sea of red roofs, an amazing building emerges that drives architecture fans crazy and contrasts with the medieval air that the historic center exudes. It is Kunsthaus Graz, the contemporary art museum of Graz which hosts temporary exhibitions of photography, film, and various artistic disciplines.
Its innovative and curious roof made of steel, methacrylate, and photovoltaic panels becomes a large screen. This building, which bears the stamp of architects Peter Cook and Colin Fournier, receives several names, although the one that resonates most is ‘friendly alien’. And this strange creature, which turns twenty years old now in 2023, has become one of the symbols of Graz.
It is worth exploring the Kunsthaus Graz, whether to see it from its inside looking out at its incredible lobby, to spend hours contemplating one of its exhibitions, or simply to take a break in its cafeteria.
Murinsel Island
A futuristic glass and steel bubble island floats on the Mur River, connecting its two banks like a bridge with two walkways. A curious construction created by Vito Acconci also in 2003, just like the Kunsthaus museum, to celebrate that, that year, Graz became the European Capital of Culture.
Inside, Graz’s Murinsel island houses an original cafeteria, which opens from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 8 pm, and a small craft shop. But in addition, this curious floating space also organizes events of all kinds, from musical performances to literary evenings.
Schloss Eggenberg
If you have time, move a little away from the center of Graz towards the eastern area by taking tram lines 1 or 7 to visit the palace Schloss Eggenberg. Surrounded by gardens, Eggenberg is a haven of peace in the already relaxed Graz. For calm and harmony is what Prince Hans Ulrich von Eggenberg was looking for when in 1625 he ordered the construction of this palace with the directive that its architecture represent a cosmos and be an allegory of the universe.
Entrance to the palace costs €17 for adults, €7 for young people aged 19 to 26 and is free for those under 19.
Where to stay in Graz
I recommend the hotel where I stayed, the NH Graz City. Its location is great, it is very new, comfortable, modern and the breakfast was most complete and delicious. It has a parking lot in the building next door that gives you a very good discount for being a guest. Oh, and the restaurant Kirby’s American Kitchen, right across the square, is well worth a dinner after a full day of visiting Graz, even if it’s not Austrian food.
Another accommodation I considered was Aiola Living, at Landhausgasse, 5, because I had heard very good things about it. I went in to have a coffee and just by doing that you can see it is a beautiful boutique hotel right in the center. If I went back, I would love to stay there.
But if you prefer an apartment with a kitchen for staying in Graz, a good option with a very reasonable price is Urban Stay Graz which, although a bit further from the center, offers free parking, for example. If you are on a road trip through Austria, which I highly recommend, this accommodation is great for forgetting about the car without having to pay.
Where to eat in Graz
To taste authentic traditional Austrian food with a special touch in the heart of the old town, I recommend the restaurant Gasthaus Stainzerbauer, at Bürgergasse 4. For lunch, for example, they have a very affordable menu starting at €12 that is quite worth it. If you go in summer, as was my case, ask for an outdoor table in the inner courtyard which is absolutely beautiful.
But if you want to try something typical of Graz, and the Styria region in general, leave aside classic dishes like goulash, a meat stew, or schnitzel, a flattened and breaded veal cutlet, for a day, and order trout, one of the region’s culinary ’emblems’ which is prepared in many different ways.
For dessert, I suggest changing locations, crossing the Mur River, and relaxing at Belgiergasse, 1, where the iconic Café Weitzer is located, to try an authentic homemade apfelstrudel , Austria’s most famous apple puff pastry tart.
If you want to treat yourself to a luxury brunch in Graz, book a table at Operncafe, the opera cafe, located at Opernring, 22. This lively cafe has more than 150 years of history and a beautiful interior to make you feel extra special. Mind you, get your wallet ready because it isn’t cheap.
Graz Map
Check this map of Graz to see where all the places mentioned in this article are located.
How to get to Graz
Although this city does have an airport, as of today, there are no direct flights to Graz from any Spanish city; you will always need to make a layover. Therefore, the most common way to go to Graz is to fly to Vienna, about 195 kilometers away.
Once there, you can choose between taking a bus or a train to Graz. In both cases, there are direct routes.
To go from Vienna to Graz by bus, you must go to the Wien Matzleinsdorferplatz station where the buses depart from. It will take about 2:15 hours and tickets start from €14 per trip.
If you prefer the train, you will have to head to Wien Hauptbahnhof, the central station. The train from Vienna to Graz takes at least 2:36 hours and you can find seats from €17.
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