Friday afternoon in Jerusalem, hurried footsteps are felt as a prelude to rest, the sun prepares to hide, sirens sound in the background… At that moment, the city begins to breathe more slowly, it exhales a silent mixture of recollection with slight notes of relief and imprecise whispers of celebration, preparing itself anxiously but discreetly for the most important hours of the week.
Shabbat or shabat begins in Israel which is experienced in a more special way in Jerusalem where, despite everything, there are still many things to do on that day.
What shabbat or shabat consists of
From sunset on Friday to nightfall on Saturday, Jews celebrate shabbat or shabat, their holy day, dedicated to rest, prayer, reading the Torah, visiting the synagogue and gathering as a family. According to Jewish law, for the orthodox there are more than thirty prohibitions to fulfill that mark the rhythm of shabbat or shabat: you cannot start or put out a fire, cook, use electricity (with everything that entails), travel in motorized vehicles, use the oven, write, sew, wash…
Faced with so many deprivations, shabbat can be understood as a time to forget about work and focus on pleasure. The pleasure of resting, of doing nothing, of dressing in one’s best clothes, of dedicating oneself to reading, of lighting candles and toasting with wine. Also the pleasure of sex, because curiously this physical effort is not forbidden on Saturday…
7 plans of things to do in Jerusalem during shabbat
Many wonder what to do in Jerusalem during shabbat when the city seems suspended in time and silence. It is true that almost all the shops are closed and public transport does not work, details that you must take into account. For that reason, some recommend heading to lively Tel Aviv where the observance of shabbat is more lax or even taking an excursion from Jerusalem to the Dead Sea to relax in its waters.
However, Jerusalem is still there during shabbat, it is not dead during those hours, it remains alive even if at another pace and it does offer alternatives. I’ll tell you 7 very interesting things to do in Jerusalem during shabbat or shabat:
1-Sign up for a guided tour of Jerusalem
Who said that Jerusalem goes to sleep during shabbat? Don’t believe it because it’s a lie. A good way to discover how the city continues to beat even if many businesses close is to take a tour of the Holy City during which, accompanied by a Spanish-speaking guide, you will visit important places such as the Mount of Olives, King David’s Tomb, Ein Karem, where John the Baptist was born, the Western Wall, the different neighborhoods of the Old City, the Via Dolorosa, the streets through which Jesus passed carrying the cross, the Holy Sepulchre and finally the most modern areas of the city.
Witnessing the reception of the Sabbath at the Western Wall
If there is a special time to visit the famous Western Wall, it is, without a doubt, Friday at sunset during the Kabbalat Shabbat, the ceremony to welcome the Sabbath. Keep in mind that you are in a sacred place and time for Jews, so please act with the utmost respect and prepare to record this scene full of emotion in your memory, since the use of cameras is prohibited.
Visit the Israel Museum
Saturday can be a good time to visit the Israel Museum, as it does not close its doors. From 9 am to 2 pm you can travel through 5,000 years of the country’s history through archaeology and art or better understand Judaism. You cannot leave there without visiting the immense model of Jerusalem in the Second Temple era or the unique building of the Shrine of the Book, where the Dead Sea Scrolls are found, ancient manuscripts found in caves in Qumran.
Approach the ultra-orthodox neighborhood of Mea Shearim
To see how the deepest shabbat or shabat is truly lived, you can head on Friday night to Mea Shearim, the ultra-orthodox Jewish neighborhood where religiousness and tradition are breathed. Between the old buildings and the curious clothing of its inhabitants, as you walk through its streets and contemplate the daily scenes, you will feel as if you have been transported back in time.
However, please remember to dress modestly, as the posters hung on the facades already warn you, act with great respect and avoid taking direct photographs of people. In any case, some recommend not walking through these types of neighborhoods during shabbat; the choice is yours.
Discover the bucolic Ein Karem
Another completely different option is to get away from the city to visit the peaceful neighborhood of Ein Karem, located on the slope of a hill to the southwest and surrounded by vegetation. This place of pilgrimage for Christians offers a beautiful walk through its cobbled streets and the possibility of visiting the Church of the Visitation and the Church of Saint John the Baptist.
During shabbat, buses do not run in Jerusalem so to arrive you need your own car, take a taxi to travel the 7 kilometers that separate it from the center or book the guided tour of Jerusalem that on Saturdays includes Ein Karem in the route.
Getting lost in the Old City
Remember that the interior of the walled Old City of Jerusalem houses three more quarters in addition to the Jewish one in which life does not come to a standstill during shabbat. You can take the opportunity to discover them and appreciate the differences between each of them.
Go from the hustle and bustle of Damascus Gate and the souk of the Arab streets, to the Vatican flags waving in the Christian Quarter to finish by admiring the beautiful courtyards and picturesque corners of the Armenian area.
- Did you know that the city hides underground tunnels? Discover them with the tour of ancient Jerusalem.
Tasting the perfect hummus
It is true that on Shabbat or Shabat many restaurants close, yes, but not all of them. I recommend heading, for example, to Nahalat Shiva, one of the first neighborhoods in Jerusalem created outside the walls of the old city, where you can find quite a few open places in its pleasant pedestrian area.
On Yoel Moshe Salomon Street, there is a small bar called Nachla 16 where for a few shekels you get a hearty and delicious homemade hummus with meat that I haven’t been able to find a rival for yet.
Where to stay in Jerusalem
During my stay in the city, I stayed at the The Inbal Jerusalem hotel, in West Jerusalem, which I loved because it was very modern, the breakfast was spectacular, and it had plenty of kosher food options to try. Além disso, the pool is great for cooling off after a day of exploring the city. It also has a spa, but I didn’t have time to try it. The airport transfer is also a major plus.
If you’re looking for something much more affordable, an option with great value for money is The Post Hostel Jerusalem which has a shared kitchen and a bar to have a drink on the panoramic terrace.
In case you want the accommodation you’re looking for in Jerusalem to be right in the heart of the Old City, the The Sephardic House Hotel in the Jewish Quarter, next to the Zion Gate. It is a 19th-century building with a beautiful interior courtyard.
Travel insurance for Israel
To enjoy your stay in Jerusalem and the rest of the country with peace of mind, I recommend taking out a good travel insurance policy before you go. Not only for free health assistance but also in case of baggage problems, theft, or any other incident you might need help with.
I recommend Mondo which is the one I use during my trips because, in addition to having very complete coverage and a very competitive price, its app offers a 24-hour chat with a doctor to resolve any questions instantly. Plus, as a reader of this blog, you now have a 15% discount on travel insurance but only until July 2, 2023. Take advantage of it!
And you, do you know more plans for what to do in Jerusalem during Shabbat? If so, don’t hesitate to share them.
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