If you are looking for lost calm and need to breathe tranquility in a privileged natural environment where you feel right at home, take note: Oña, Frías, and Poza de la Sal. Three ecotourism destinations that are deliciously welcoming and await you in the north of Burgos, touching the regions of Las Merindades and La Bureba.
These three towns, which joined forces by allying in the Raíces de Castilla tourism association, overflow with history, as the name suggests and is confirmed by the fact that they are all Historic-Artistic Sites. However, this time I suggest focusing not only on their historical and artistic heritage, but on their incredible natural and human heritage.
That is why here I propose four very simple routes to do as a family through the best places to see in Raíces de Castilla. Oña, Frías, and Poza de la Sal accumulate, one after another, attractions that make this unique Burgos triangle the perfect place for a family rural getaway of those that recharge batteries and fill the soul, as well as the stomach.
And this association boasts of having the perfect mixture resulting from the alchemy process after shaking gorges and canyons, waterfalls and rivers, forests and moors, with the exact dose of hospitality and affection of its inhabitants, plus a good splash of ecological awareness.
Montes Obarenes – San Zadornil, the dose of nature
A large part of the responsibility for the final result of that mix lies in the fact that a large part of the territory of Oña, Frías, and Poza de la Sal is within the Montes Obarenes – San Zadornil Natural Park, one of the areas with the highest biodiversity in all of Europe.
This, unjustly unknown, natural park stands out, and rightly so, for its geological importance. A stone wall that rises over the Castilian fields as if it were the final flourish of the Cantabrian Mountains.
Here flows the elegant and voluminous Ebro, as well as its tributary the Oca and others, perhaps more modest but capable of creating whimsical waterfalls like the Molinar river. Fresh water that has been molding the stone and the mountain until creating gorges, canyons, and ravines.
Landscapes as interesting as the La Horadada gorge which tenderly houses a spectacular yew forest with more than 60 ancient specimens.
Quite a bit further away is the San Zadornil area, on the other side of the Sierra de Árcena. There you can venture into the Green Metropolis, a mosaic of forests known as ‘The New York of the Forests’ with a lot of different tree species, from holm oaks to yews, including beeches, chestnuts, oaks, and even sequoias.
In addition, the Montes Obarenes – San Zadornil natural park boasts its wildlife, among which birds stand out. And watch out, not only raptors like the griffon vulture, the Egyptian vulture, or the eagle live here, but you will also be able to see many other birds, even the grey heron. Many other animals live in these parts, such as roe deer, wild boars, wolves, otters, or the wild cat.
Ecological awareness with a lot of history
Undoubtedly, Oña, Frías, and Poza de la Sal are perfect as a responsible tourism or ecotourism destination. Here they are very clear that the natural heritage surrounding them is unique and they must preserve it. They feel privileged to live in that nature, the same that, in a way, feeds them, and that is why they take care of their environment with tenderness, defend environmental conservation tooth and nail, and promote the local economy, for example, with zero-kilometer products.
This ecological awareness displayed by Raíces de Castilla has history, and a lot of it. Already the Benedictine monks who had lived in the monastery of San Salvador in Oña since the 11th century were showing the way by focusing on sustainability. They were vegetarians, had their own vegetable garden, and even built the first fish farm in Spain back in the 16th century for trout and eels.
Surely part of the responsibility for the fact that in Oña, Frías, and Poza de la Sal they deliver a message of respect for nature with such passion and sensitivity lies with their most illustrious neighbor: Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente. This man from Burgos, born in Poza de la Sal and passed away in Alaska in 1980, dedicated his life to spreading the importance of taking care of animals and nurturing nature.
Precisely, back in 1972, Félix already put the spotlight on the serious environmental problem posed by plastics which now, fifty years later, is already an invasion such that we can speak of a pandemic. The naturalist spoke back then of us being the culture or civilization of garbage and stressed how those wastes ended up being poison for animals, poison now also for the planet.
Be that as it may, wherever it comes from, ecological awareness has taken deep root in the inhabitants of Oña, Frías, and Poza de la Sal. And this is conveyed to you, for example, by Josu Olavarría from the Huerta de San Salvador Park House, located in the old cowshed of the 11th-century monastery of San Salvador in Oña, who invites you to feel the nature where they live and creates in you the urgent need to respect it.
Take advantage of the getaway to Oña, Frías, and Poza de la Sal to instill in children the value of taking care of the environment. The visit to the Montes Obarenes Park House in Oña is perfect for achieving this. In addition to learning about the flora and fauna of the environment, they have an exhibition that warns about the dangers of garbage, the use of plastics, and the importance of recycling. It is a perfect educational resource for children and is the perfect complement to family walks through the nature of Raíces de Castilla during which they can distinguish trees, collect fruits, and spot animals.
Four family routes through Raíces de Castilla
Oña: Senda de la Huerta de San Salvador
From the Park House in Oña, starts the Senda de la Huerta de San Salvador, a perfect route to do as a family with small children. This circular walk of less than three kilometers combines nature, art, history, and even a bit of magic.
At the beginning of the route, you will pass by several works of art that decorate the Benedictine gardens of the monastery of San Salvador thanks to the cultural initiative ‘The Secret Garden’, promoted by the artist Carlos Armiño, who has converted this sacred place into an open-air museum of contemporary art.
Between sculpture and sculpture, you can admire the beauty of the gardens where the cloistered monks used to walk, as well as the ponds they made when channeling, in 1516, the Valdoso spring from which water flows at a constant temperature of 10 degrees. A canalization that the monks called ‘The Oña River’ and which also led to the construction of the first fish farm in Spain for trout and eels.
Legend has it that a faun lived in a cave in these monastery gardens where he liked to go out and play the flute. One day, while he was doing so, the sun’s rays hit him and he was turned to stone. Look for this sculpture of the faun with the children and encourage them to find the cave where he lived, the Grotto of San José with intricate passages and skylights that give an even more special touch to this route.
From there, the path begins to climb a bit crossing the forest where the monks used to walk, always within the monastery grounds enclosed by a huge 4-kilometer wall built more than 500 years ago with stone and salt mortar. This wall will accompany you throughout the journey.
After passing through pines, gall oaks, holm oaks, beeches and up to 30 different species of trees, you reach the chapel of Santo Toribio to continue, already starting to descend, to the Vista Alegre viewpoint. Here you have a beautiful panoramic view of the surroundings with the Town of Oña and the ‘abandoned’ village of Tamayo in the middle.
The path continues descending parallel to the monastery wall again and ends next to another viewpoint from which to contemplate the Oca River canyon.
The Huerta de San Salvador route in Oña is very simple, so much so that I did it with children aged 5, 3 and 1. The youngest was in a baby carrier, but we took the stroller throughout the route, although near the end there is a part with many stones where it was a bit more difficult to push.
You can do it on your own or sign up for one of the guided tours which I highly recommend. For only two euros you will have, with luck, the company of environmental educator Josu Olabarría who, in addition to telling you many stories about the monastery and teaching you how to differentiate trees and birds, will immediately share his passion for nature with you.
Meeting Josu, listening to him speak and even being moved by his words make this ecotourism getaway to Raíces de Castilla even more worthwhile. Call the Montes Obarenes de Oña Park House in advance at 947 56 79 71 to find out about schedules and reserve a spot.
- Before or after the route, don’t miss visiting the medieval center of Oña which is beautiful and where the abbey church and the Monastery of San Salvador stand out.
- If you don’t have much time, a good option could be the guided tour of the Monastery of Oña along with the Monastery of Rioseco and the Church of Santa Olalla de Espinosa.
Tobera: Paseo del Molinar
Tobera, a neighborhood of the small city of Frías, holds one of the most beautiful and easiest routes to do with children in Raíces de Castilla . Once again, nature, history and a bit of legend go hand in hand so that the little ones in the house enjoy walking.
The path begins in one of the most photogenic spots in this part of Burgos, a corner where in a single glance you have the Chapel of la Hoz, a Romanesque temple with a transition to Gothic from the 12th century, the San Cristo de los Remedios shrine from the 17th century, and the medieval bridge of Roman origin.
Legend has it that the queen’s postman passed through here on horseback to deliver a letter to her majesty when a snake crossed his path. The horse got spooked and, running wild, tried to throw the rider into the air, who then entrusted himself to Christ to come out safely. As thanks for the miracle of saving his life and being able to deliver the letter, the queen ordered the shrine to be built to pay homage to the Christ of Remedies.
This point, where there is a small parking lot, can be found on the road from Frías to Ranera. Right there begins the Paseo del Molinar route, a conditioned path along the banks of the Molinar River which, on its way to the Ebro, flows swiftly, plunging down several waterfalls known as the Tobera waterfalls.
It’s just under two kilometers that can be done in a circular way passing through Tobera, this district, actually a neighborhood of Frías, which has a lot of charm and where, as I tell you below, the food is great. I suggest telling the legend to the children before starting the route; just with the idea of going in search of the snake, they will start walking. Afterward, between throwing stones into the water and picking hazelnuts, the walk flies by.
Additionally, you will cross the occasional bridge and look out from the odd viewpoint. The trail is very easy, but if you are going with very small children, be careful because there are some narrow areas that are a bit slippery and, in a couple of points, you have to cross the river by stepping from stone to stone. In this case, if you are with a baby, it’s better to forget about the stroller.
The last waterfall has the peculiarity that you can walk behind the curtain of water. The little ones, and the adults, will love crossing the waterfall.
Frías: Assault on the Castle
More than a hiking route, here I recommend an urban walk. Yes, urban because Frías has been the smallest city in our country since 1436, when Juan II granted it this title. However, it doesn’t even reach 300 inhabitants and is considered one of the most beautiful villages in Spain.
Anything with the word castle will automatically spark interest in the little ones of the house, so you already have motivation to encourage them to take this family stroll through Frías, a walled medieval enclave that once had three gates: the Medina, the Postigo, and the Cadena gates. Its strategic importance led Alfonso VIII to settle in the castle to control the trade crossing the only bridge in the area that spanned the Ebro River, one of the most beautiful fortified bridges in the country which you can admire from the top of the castle.
Today the silhouette of the Velasco castle, with the keep tower defying vertigo perched on a tuff rock outcrop known as La Muela, is the hallmark of Frías.
A unique medieval ‘skyline’ that is completed by the hanging houses and ends with the bell tower of the church of San Vicente with its remarkable Romanesque portal. Two attractions in Frías that you cannot miss during this route.
Park on the outskirts and, in just a few steps, you will be entering the old town via Calle del Mercado, where right at the beginning, you will see a medieval stone cross (crucero). Explore Frías unhurriedly, notice the cobblestone floor and wander through this charming network of narrow streets and medieval facades with wooden framing. Narrow streets under which there was a whole network of underground passages connecting the Paseo de Ronda with the church.
Undoubtedly, the highlight of Frías is the visit to the Velasco castle (entry €2) next to the Frías tourist office, which is accessed after crossing the bridge over the moat and navigating the zigzagging Muslim defensive system. Once inside, be sure to climb up to the Keep tower to contemplate the views of Frías, the medieval bridge, and the Tobalina valley at your feet.
The floor of the tower hides a small secret that unfortunately is at risk of disappearing. On the floor, some lines can still be seen, the remains of an alquerque, a medieval game identified as the origin of today’s checkers and which served as entertainment for the guards on duty.
Before returning from this little route through Frías, stop at the playground behind the San Francisco school, at the corner of Calle del Crucero and Calle del Mercado. It’s not every day kids can slide down a large slide in the shadow of a medieval castle.
- You can discover Frías along with other charming villages in the area with this tour of the Merindades villages.
Poza de la Sal: Circular Route of Las Salinas and the Rojas Castle
It wouldn’t be strange if, upon arriving at Poza de la Sal, you thought you heard some distant symphony welcoming you. This historic village, whose potential the Romans already recognized thanks to the white gold that emerges from its land, has a passion for music. This is evidenced by the 130-year history of its brass band and the bandstand you will see in front of the Poza de la Sal Tourist Office in the Plaza de la Villa, just before crossing the Arco del Conjuradero to reach the church of San Cosme and San Damián.
From the tourist office, guided tours depart daily at 1:00 PM to explore the medieval village where Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente was born. If you want to follow in his footsteps, you can take the self-guided walk ‘Following Félix’s Footprints’ which covers the places of his childhood and the three skies he always spoke of: that of the village, the salt flats, and the moor.
Even with luck, you might find Antonio Sanjuanes in the village, his best friend and the living memory of the naturalist. Displaying the affectionate and open character they boast of in Poza de la Sal, he will surely chat with you.
But now I encourage you to put your boots back on as a family to do the longest hiking route of those I have suggested here. It is a circular route of just over 5 kilometers that starts from the washhouses, passes by the bust of Félix accompanied by a wolf, goes to the salt flats, continues to look out from the El Picón de Santa Engracia viewpoint and passes in front of the now half-ruined Rojas castle where the kids can play at being knights. Start the descent to the village but not before passing by the tower known as the palace.
In two hours, which will be almost three at a calm and child-friendly pace, you will have completed the Poza de la Sal Salt Flats route which has a vertical drop of over two hundred meters and which, if you are going with a baby, you will necessarily have to do with a baby carrier backpack. If you go in autumn, which I highly recommend to enjoy without many people, even if the weather is still good, bring warm clothing because it is usually quite windy at the castle.
If you have time, an interesting visit to do with children, and without them, is the Salt Flats Interpretation Center where you can discover what the famous Poza de la Sal diapir is, that unique geological phenomenon by which, millions of years ago, the sedimented salt from the extinct Tethys Sea tried to emerge to the surface pushing the rest of the strata upwards and forming a kind of crater of two square kilometers in the center of which the village is located.
When to visit Oña, Frías, and Poza de la Sal?
It is true that any time is a good time to take a trip back to the roots through Oña, Frías, and Poza de la Sal, but it is outside high season, beyond the busy summer, when you can breathe true peace. Once the tourists and vacationers return to the city taking the summer bustle with them, calm settles back into the cobbled streets, the landscapes seem to quiet down, and the environment appears overwhelmingly more beautiful than usual.
It is then, beyond summer, when the prevailing silence allows the senses to enjoy, in a more conscious way, a feast of auditory, visual and, of course, gastronomic experiences. The two occasions I have been on a route through Oña, Frías, and Poza de la Sal were in autumn.
And yes, autumn is a perfect time to spend a few days in Raíces de Castilla. But do it without rushing, to walk and be aware of how the dry leaves crunch as they break under your feet or how the firewood burning in the fireplaces of the houses smells. Without rushing to be able to chat in a square or a cafe with the neighbors who overflow with hospitality and passion for their land. Without rushing to observe with binoculars the herons perched in the Benedictine gardens of Oña or the vultures flying overhead in search of carrion. Without rushing to crack hazelnuts with a stone in any corner of the charming Tobera.
Of course, in autumn the landscapes are colored with ochres, yellows, and even reds that seem to light up and fade before you in the Montes Obarenes and the Árcena mountain range. Additionally, in this season you can pick chestnuts on a route through the magical centuries-old chestnut forest of San Zadornil for just 5 euros.
Where to eat in Raíces de Castilla
Leave time on this route through Raíces de Castilla to slowly savor the tasty and hearty gastronomy of Burgos. There are many
In Frías you have several options for eating, just on Mercado Street, under the castle tower, you will find several. I cannot recommend one in particular because I only had some pinchos there at Restaurante Ortiz (C/ Del Mercado, 19) where the torreznos and blood sausage were very good, so surely the food was also remarkable.
- Do you know why the blood sausage from Frías is different from the traditional Burgos blood sausage? Here they make it directly with cooked rice, while the usual method is to prepare it with raw rice.
Entre Pozas Restaurant, in Tobera
If you are looking for pure and simple tradition, reserve a table at the Entre Pozas restaurant in Tobera to try a suckling lamb roasted in a wood-fired oven of the kind that doesn’t need a starter. The lamb was incredibly juicy, and if you also add that you can eat it on the terrace overlooking one of the waterfalls of the Molinar River, the experience is a ten out of ten.
For dessert, I recommend the homemade cheesecake; I would say without hesitation it’s the best I’ve ever tasted. You must order the suckling lamb menu in advance. They also have a very tasty menu of the day. If you go on a weekend, it’s better to book a table beforehand. Oh, and they have a small staircase that leads you directly from the terrace to the waterfall.
- Address: C/ de Burgos, 23 in Tobera.
- Website: Restaurante Entre Pozas
- Reservation phone: 630 08 93 24
Blanco y Negro Restaurant, in Oña
From the tradition of suckling lamb to the avant-garde showcased at the Blanco y Negro restaurant, where you will find a surprising Spanish and Senegalese fusion cuisine. The hands of chef Arona Gassama work magic and offer you delicious bites like a silky corvina with Attieké (traditional cassava couscous from Ivory Coast) and a lamb skewer that literally melted in the mouth, based on a Senegalese dish called Thiebou Yaap.
Don’t miss eating at Blanco y Negro because their dishes are a gastronomic wonder that will make you travel to Africa without leaving Burgos. The place is very small, so it is essential to book in one of its two shifts: 13:30 or 15:00 for lunch and 21:15 and 22:30 for dinner.
If you go with babies, they have high chairs and toys, in addition to kindness and patience to season their delicious dishes.
- Address: C/ del Agua, 23 in Oña.
- Website: Restaurante Blanco y Negro
- Reservation phone: 947 30 01 52
Haz un alto en el bar Janfry, en la plaza del Ayuntamiento de Oña, para tomarte un vino y charlar con una de las personas más carismáticas de esta villa. Aunque no sirve comidas, pídele por favor que haga una excepción y te ponga una ración de cecina con aceite de oliva y almendras que está de vicio.
Casa Rural Lences de Bureba Restaurant
Can you imagine eating an authentic Valencian paella made in a tiny Burgos village? Don’t just imagine it and go, please, to Lences de Bureba to try the rice that Jose will prepare for you instantly with all the love and charm in the world, with the help of his wife Laura.
Watch out, because Jose puts as much rice as he does confidence into the paella, so the portions are huge. But don’t worry, if there are leftovers, they will happily pack them for you to take away. Eating in a traditional Castilian village courtyard and chatting with some of the locals will be another of those moments of rural tranquility you came looking for in Raíces de Castilla.
Address: Plaza Corta, 1 in Lences de Bureba.
Website: Casa rural Lences de Bureba
Reservation phone: 642 92 76 78
Where to stay in Raíces de Castilla
Although some people do the Raíces de Castilla route in a single day, I recommend spending at least three between Oña, Frías, and Poza de la Sal because in all three places you will find great rural accommodation options. And I say minimum because when it comes to exploring, walking through nature, and discovering the history and art hidden in every corner, this area of northeastern Burgos easily provides enough for several days and even a week if you want to go hiking and do active tourism activities.
Additionally, staying overnight in the villages of Raíces de Castilla outside the peak season allows you to take calm night walks with a lot of magic.
Based on my experience, I recommend two places to stay in Oña that are a guaranteed success:
–Camino Condal – If you are looking for rural accommodation with history, character, and its own personality, Camino Condal is waiting for you. Janfry manages this place, located in a colonial building from 1863 in the heart of the old town, with the same passion he feels for Oña, and that is transmitted in every detail.
For less than €60, you can spend the night in one of its warm rooms and wake up with a breakfast capable of giving you energy for the whole day. It also features a covered patio and a lounge with a fireplace to relax in good company. Highly recommended!
–Hostal Rural La Muralla An accommodation with modern, very new, and very clean rooms. Despite being next to the road, you rest wonderfully because it is very well soundproofed. If you go as a family, they provide an extra bed and crib upon request, although the space is a bit tight. It has free parking in front of the building and the breakfast is more than enough to face a day of rural tourism.
Although I stayed in Oña, I will leave you two other rural accommodation options in Frías and Poza de la Sal:
–Casa Pepe in Frías: A small stone house with a kitchen and all the amenities where I would stay without hesitation the next time I visit Raíces de Castilla.
–Casa Martín in Poza de la Sal: Book one of their en-suite rooms to spend the night in the village of Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente. They offer breakfast and also have a restaurant.
*This getaway was part of a blog trip organized by Raíces de Castilla, but all my opinions are independent and entirely personal based on the experience.
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