When you tell someone you’re going to travel to Alaska, people look at you funny, as if you’ve lost your mind, only to add: “and what have you lost there?”. That’s those who don’t know everything there is to see in Alaska.
Well, between early starts, traffic jams, and bills, I had lost the sense of freedom that travel brings. So, I had to go looking for it on the other side of the ocean. And there it was waiting for me, hidden among the spectacular Alaska landscapes, along miles and miles without a trace of human life, among glaciers, mountains, and lakes, beside a bonfire under the midnight sun.
Yes, Alaska gave me back the sense of freedom, so much so that I didn’t want to leave and I don’t rule out returning. It might have been the trip I’ve enjoyed the most so far. Although “the last frontier” might seem like a remote and inaccessible place on your own, however Alaska is a simple and totally recommended destination for traveling freely at your own pace.
Here is the 21-day motorhome route through Alaska and a few facts in case you are also looking for lost freedom:
Route for traveling to Alaska in a motorhome:
Before organizing your route through Alaska, I recommend that you take out good travel insurance. Such an expensive adventure to such a remote place requires you to be well covered and have the peace of mind that someone will look after you. I recommend Heymondo because it is the insurance I travel with, which besides having very good coverage, features a video consultation option with a healthcare professional and a 24-hour medical chat in its app that can help you a lot.
Take advantage of the fact that you now have a 15% discount on travel insurance for being a blog reader plus another extra 15% if you travel as a family. Up to 30% cheaper if you take out the policy by December 2nd at the latest to travel whenever you want.
And now I will tell you which route I took when traveling to Alaska in a motorhome:
Anchorage
Although the capital is Juneau, Anchorage is the largest city in the entire state of Alaska. At the end of the trip, we would have a day to take a look at it, but this first day only served for us to pick up the motorhome and stock up on some basic items.
Seward
It’s essential to spend a few days in the Kenai Peninsula, which has everything. We fell in love with it from the start, so much so that if we return, we would definitely go there to explore it thoroughly
Seward is the starting point for navigating through Kenai Fjords National Park, admiring its s fjords, watching icebergs break off a glacier, spotting whales and sea lions. Two nights in Seward were not enough, although they left the memory of an unforgettable sunrise.
Just 13 kilometers from this charming town is Exit Glacier, you’ll see it so close you can almost touch it with your hand. If you have time and physical strength, there is a trek (Harding Icefield Trail) that climbs to the top of this glacier and allows you to enjoy spectacular views of the immense ice field.
- Choose from the best accommodations in Seward
Russian River
A one-night technical stop on the banks of Russian River, this famous river where, during the salmon season, it’s very easy to see bears very close to the fishermen. But Alaska doesn’t just live on bears, there are also several trekking routes around this beautiful forested area. If you like the fishing atmosphere and continue your way towards Homer, we recommend stopping to take a look at the Kasilof River, near Soldotna.
Homer
The picturesque town of Homer in the south of the Kenai Peninsula certainly deserves more than the single night I stayed. There you could fish for its famous halibut, have a beer in the original Salty Dawg Saloon, walk along its beach and get lost with a kayak in the neighboring Kachemak Bay.
If you have a more flexible budget than ours, perhaps you can afford to take one of the small plane excursions to Katmai to see the bears up close. They say it’s spectacular but very expensive. If you want detailed info I recommend Chavetas’ experience in Katmai.
- Here is the option to take the small plane tour to see grizzly bears in Katmai.
What is free is visiting, before arriving in Homer, the Ninilchik Orthodox Church, which recalls Alaska’s Russian past and offers a beautiful sight.
Crescent Creek Trail
An overnight stay here is essential to do Crescent Creek Trail, a 20 km (round trip) route for hiking or biking and which culminates in a lake like those in the movies, surrounded by trees and with the mountains in the background. And as happens in many other Alaskan treks, watch out because you have to share the path with the bears that roam the area.
The parking lot itself where the trekking begins served as a place for us to spend the night for free, although this might not be possible in July and August. The next day, before leaving the Kenai Peninsula, we stopped at a wildlife conservation center where you can see many animals up close.
- If you don’t want to worry about transfers, there is the option to take a combined tour of the wildlife conservation center and see the Portage Glacier from a boat.
Long Lake
Halfway between Anchorage and Valdez, this idyllic lake right next to the Glennallen Highway enchanted us. We spent one night at Long Lake after visiting the abandoned Independence Mine and before Matanuska Glacier. We finally decided to see the latter simply from the viewpoint, although it is possible to reach it and do some of the activities it offers.
Valdez
In the fishing village of Valdez, located between the mountains and the sea, you can also spend a few days sailing on a boat through the fjords of Prince William Sound to the massive Columbia Glacier, photographing the playful sea otters, or spotting birds like the curious puffins.
The three nights in Valdez were almost too short. We spent one of the days kayaking on a lake among the blocks of ice that break off from the glacier that ends there.
McCarthy- Kennicott
After traveling the 60 miles of McCarthy Road, the unpaved road from the small town of Chitina to McCarthy, we can enjoy the impressive mountain landscapes of the Wrangell St. Elias National Park and this picturesque and remote place that takes us back to the “Wild West” and its mining past. If your budget allows, you can reach McCarthy by small plane and avoid the risk of driving on the dreaded McCarthy Road, although you will miss out on a great adventure.
We spent two nights in McCarthy, which also served for the excursion to walk on the Root Glacier, which could have been extended without a problem. The experience of putting on crampons and stepping on ancient ice is unforgettable, and I recommend it 100%.
- If you don’t want to go on your own to such a remote place, you have the option of doing it closer to Anchorage with this glacier trekking in Chugach.
Paxon Lake
Looking for a place to spend the night during the long drive from McCarthy to the entrance of the Denali Highway, we found the charming Paxon Lake campground on the shores of a lake, surrounded by thousands of fir trees and where we especially enjoyed the midnight sun. The adventure of hurriedly cooking a salmon on the barbecue for dinner in bear country is priceless.
Denali Highway
In my view, it is essential to patiently travel the 215 kilometers of the Denali Highway, a gravel road whose landscapes will leave you speechless. Although there are at least two campgrounds, I spent one night parked for free at a viewpoint that gave us impressive views upon waking up.
Denali National Park
You cannot leave Alaska without spending the night in Denali National Park, marveling at the untouched nature surrounding you, quietly spotting bears, doing spectacular treks and, if you are very lucky (as we were) enjoying the views of the highest peak in all of the United States: Denali, at over 6194 meters, formerly called Mount McKinley. We recommend booking well in advance your place on the buses that run through the park as well as a spot in the interior campsites. I spent three nights in Denali but I would have stayed for a month.
Anchorage
On the way back from Denali, we stopped to visit the town of Talkeetna, from where many of the small planes that take scenic flights over Mount Denali take off. We were lucky enough to arrive in Anchorage just during the summer solstice celebration, so we enjoyed the festive atmosphere in the streets for two nights before heading back home.
- If you want to get to know the city thoroughly, a good option is to take a guided tour of Anchorage.
21-day motorhome route: Alaska Map
To help you better visualize the itinerary of this motorhome road trip, here is the map of Alaska with the route of these 21 days
How to get to Alaska:
After much looking and searching, the most direct and cheapest way we found to reach Anchorage was flying with the low-cost airline Condor directly from Frankfurt, with a mini-stop to refuel at the Canadian airport of Whitehorse. Although it also flies from Madrid, we discovered that we saved quite a bit of money by buying the ticket from this German city.
When to travel to Alaska:
Given Alaska’s geographic location, its winter is very extreme, so the “viable” season to visit the state is very short: from mid-May to early September. During these months, temperatures are milder and all national parks remain open to see wildlife, glaciers, and enjoy trekking.
We decided to travel to Alaska in June mainly for budgetary reasons, flights and motorhome rentals were cheaper than in high season: July and August. Another advantage we found was the 22 hours of sunlight that allow you to extend the days until your body gives out, without the rush of a limited solar schedule. However, we warn that it takes quite a while to get used to sleeping with the midnight sun “on” and, sometimes, you even end up missing the moon and the stars.
If we had to return, we would probably do it from mid-June to mid-July because it is easier to see bears fishing in the rivers during the salmon run. From July onwards, it is much easier for rain to spoil a day, although this could obviously happen at any time.
How to get around Alaska:
Approximately only 10% of the entire territory of Alaska has roads, the rest is only accessible by small plane. But the few paved miles that exist easily connect most of the main tourist destinations and are also in good condition, so renting a car or a motorhome are two good options for getting around. Traveling to Alaska by car means you have to stay in hotels, which are quite expensive in general and don’t have many rooms available.
So, in our case, after doing some calculations, we decided to travel to Alaska by motorhome to enjoy the freedom of changing the itinerary at our whim and based on the weather and, also, to save some money on meals. There are many companies to compare prices and options. We opted for Great Alaskan Holidays . I recommend reading El Rincón de Sele if you want to have a lot of practical information about traveling to Alaska by motorhome.
Although we did not use other options, there are plenty of ships and mega cruises that travel the Gulf of Alaska from Juneau. There are also the Alaska Marine Highway ferries, very useful if you are traveling by car to save time, for example, between Seward and Valdez, or to reach the remote port of Cordova. In our view, they are not cheap at all, you are limited by their schedules, and you miss part of the charm of the trip.
For those who like the train, the famous Alaska Railroad connects Seward with Fairbanks, stopping obviously in Denali National Park itself.
If you finally decide to drive on your own, we wholeheartedly recommend the Milepost, much more than a simple road guide, as it describes mile by mile all the practical information necessary to prepare your itinerary: distances, gas stations, campsites, recreational areas, viewpoints, animal spotting points, museums, maps… This guide is an essential resource for traveling to Alaska on your own, especially if your idea is to do a road trip.
You can buy the latest edition (updated every year) at practically any supermarket or gas station for about $30. It was very useful for us throughout the trip.
- A trip to Alaska requires being connected to the Internet always from your mobile. A good solution is to get an eSIM card with unlimited data that you can activate as soon as you land. Also, being virtual you don’t need to open your mobile because it configures itself just by reading a QR code. Take advantage of the 5% discount on the Hola Fly eSIM card.
Where to sleep in Alaska:
In general, accommodation in Alaska is quite expensive and, as the tourist season is very short, it is highly recommended to book in advance if you are going to travel to Alaska in the summer months. Since we were traveling to Alaska by motorhome, we only stayed two nights in hostels in Anchorage. The first night we did so at the recommended Arctic Adventure Hostel in a double room with a shared bathroom, access to the kitchen, and pancakes with coffee for breakfast. The second was at the Alaska Backpackers Inn, more central but too noisy for our taste. (update February 2022: this hotel has closed permanently)
Campsites in Alaska
On average, we spent one out of every three nights at campsites with the motorhome. The rest of the time we camped for free with the motorhome since, except in some places with an express prohibition, it is possible to spend the night anywhere. The campsites, as a general rule, are quite modest, they have parking, a picnic area, and a barbecue or, failing that, a place to make a fire. The most equipped ones have electricity and running water hookups, drains to empty the motorhome’s black water, laundries, bathrooms, and even Wi-Fi.
A curiosity of most Alaskan campsites is the payment method, a simple metal box anchored to the ground with a slot to insert an envelope with the money. To prove you have paid, you must place a small receipt in the motorhome’s window. Additionally, many have a host figure, who is usually a veteran vacationer who helps newcomers and is in charge of monitoring.
Sleeping inside Denali National Park
In Denali, if you want to sleep inside the national park itself (which we recommend without hesitation) it is advisable to reserve a spot in one of the campsites in advance, as they fill up quickly. We stayed for three nights (the maximum allowed) at the last one that could be reached by motorhome, the Savage River Campground. It is the only one from which, on clear days, you can see the famous Mount Denali. You must keep in mind that there is no electrical connection or direct water intake there.
How much it costs to travel to Alaska:
We won’t deny it, Alaska is an expensive destination. Giving a budget is complicated because it depends on many factors, but here we give you some figures to give you an idea. All prices correspond to June 2010.
Flight tickets
In total, adding the Madrid-Frankfurt flight and the Condor flight from Frankfurt-Anchorage, we spent €850 per person.
Motorhome rental
Although there were only two of us, we had no choice but to rent a six-person motorhome (25 feet), though it was the latest model and practically new. With Great Alaskan Holidays it cost us $182 per day with various extras, including: -unlimited mileage/ kitchenware / bedding and towels / chairs and table for eating / a prepaid tank of diesel (it was cheaper than filling at gas stations) / another of propane gas (which we didn’t even use up so it wasn’t worth it) / basic insurance plus CDW (which we were glad to take because the day before arriving a stone cracked the window and some vandal scratched the bodywork) / power converter very useful for charging batteries while driving.
You can search for rental car deals and compare prices to decide what pays off more for you.
Gasoline
A good part of the budget goes to fuel because the motorhome consumes quite a lot. The price was around $4 per gallon (1 gallon = 4.5 liters) and fluctuated a lot from some gas stations to others. In total, we covered 2,618 kilometers and spent $555.
Campsites
The price of the campsites depends on whether you stay on a simple plot or one with a full hook-up, which means water, electricity, and drainage. Based on this, prices range from the $10 we paid for the cheapest (Allison Point Campsite in Valdez) to the most expensive which cost $35 with Wi-Fi included (Bear Paw Campsite curiously also in Valdez). By carefully rationalizing water and electricity consumption, we were able to spend the night for up to three nights without needing to pay for a campsite and, as a rule, in very beautiful places.
Food
Supermarkets turned out to be very expensive, from milk to a simple bag of rice, everything had exorbitant prices. Even so, it is cheaper to buy groceries at the supermarket than to eat at a restaurant. The best-known stores are the Carrs, Safeway, and Fred Meyer chains. In total, we spent $300 on food for about three weeks at the supermarket without great luxuries. Except for meat for the barbecue (ribs and sausages), we usually bought rice, pasta, cans of beans, soups, sandwiches, energy bars, fruit, water, beers…
Various prices
Where to eat in Alaska:
We cannot say much about the restaurants because we barely used them, only three times (not counting McDonald’s). One evening we had dinner in Valdez, at Alaska’s Bistro, owned by a Spaniard, and although the food was good, it struck us as too expensive ($95) for what it offered.
On our last day in Anchorage, as a farewell, we decided to push the boat out and went for dinner at the famous Simon’s and Seafort. We spent $108, but we loved the views and the fresh fish. Afterwards you can have a cocktail at its lively bar.
Thanks to the directions from our friend Bill (read “Un águila para desayunar“, in Spanish), we stopped for lunch at Suzie’s Cafe on the Sterling Highway, on the Kenai Peninsula. It is a roadside diner and nothing more, but we do recommend it, for its authenticity, its atmosphere, the smile you are served with and its crab sandwich. Lunch cost us $32 and we left very happy.
What to do in Alaska:
If you like active travel, you will like travelling to Alaska. Here are some of the main activities you can do in these far-off lands. There are many more but, sadly, we ran short of time and money.
Hiking
For those who like to walk, fill their lungs with clean air and enjoy dizzying landscapes in solitude, Alaska will not disappoint. Here is a free activity you can do in practically any corner of the state. Alaska has a very extensive trail network, well signposted, in perfect condition and with car parks. You can choose between short walks or treks lasting several days, sleeping in cabins.
It is even possible to walk on a glacier with crampons, although in that case you do need a guide and it is not free. .
Day cruises
You cannot travel to Alaska without taking a boat along its glacier-studded coast, to spot whales and sea lions… You will find such a wide range of companies and routes that it can leave you feeling lost. In Seward we took the boat run by Kenai Fjords Tours, and in Valdez the one run by Major Marine Tours .
In both cases there is a ranger giving you explanations about the area, the wildlife, odd facts… in English only, mind you. You can bring your own food or pay extra to eat from the buffet they lay on board, which tends to be fairly basic. They are very large, very touristy boats; if we went again, we would perhaps choose smaller ones such as the Lulu Belle in Valdez. Oh, and do not forget your binoculars and your seasickness tablets (we speak from experience).
- Another option is the whale-watching tour in Juneau.
Kayaking
There are plenty of places to try kayaking or to practise it, whether for a short while or over an expedition lasting several days, on the open sea, on rivers or on lakes. We were beginners and made our debut gliding across a lake, between chunks of ice breaking off a glacier. We chose the company Anadyr Adventures in Valdez, who were pretty professional. It is a very calm activity that can even be done with children. We took our own food (sandwich, fruit and an energy bar, “our daily bread”), but the guide treated us to a hot chocolate and we shared provisions with the rest of the group.
Scenic flights
The one we still have to tick off. The most popular is the flight over Mount Denali, landing at base camp, which you can book either in Denali or in Talkeetna. We recommend that you do not book it in advance, because it is an activity that depends entirely on the weather, and the weather there is very capricious. There are plenty of companies to choose from and it is not hard to find a seat once you are there. We tried in Talkeetna but the clouds said no. Money saved!
We had already tried our luck in McCarthy, to fly over Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, but the day broke with pouring rain.
Fishing
If we ever go back to Alaska, we are clear that we will take up the patient art of fishing, so that we can land a wild sockeye salmon ourselves. What seems to be the national sport draws keen anglers there from all over the world. You can try your luck in rivers as famous as the Russian River and the Kasilof, or take a boat out of Homer with one of the tours that go looking for halibut at sea.
More things to do in Alaska
A 21-day motorhome route through Alaska is not enough to see it all. Many destinations and activities had to be left out of the itinerary, because there is a great deal to see in Alaska. Here are some of the things I would have liked to do and that perhaps you will get to experience:
–Fly to the Katmai reserve to see bears fishing for salmon up close.
-Visit the fishing port of Cordova and its impressive Child’s Glacier.
– Explore Kachemak Bay by kayak at your own pace, spending the night in the forest.
-Head up to the remote city of Fairbanks, where there is plenty to do.
–Fly over the snowy summit of Mount Denali, formerly McKinley, in a light aircraft.
– Watch hundreds of salmon running upriver.
–Climb the ice walls of the Root Glacier in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.
–Watch the northern lights between September and April.
– Spend 4 days walking the 39 miles of one of the best-known and most spectacular treks: the Resurrection Pass Trail.
How to save money when travelling to Alaska: Tour Saver
If you are planning to do several of these things, we recommend buying the Tour Saver, a book of discount coupons that in many cases gets you two-for-one on especially expensive activities such as the cruises or the scenic flights. You can also take advantage of offers on some hotels, campsites or museums.
It may seem expensive, since the Tour Saver costs $99, but the moment you do, say, two cruises at around $120 each it already pays for itself, and you will most likely use it more than once. On its website you can see the full list of every discount it offers. You can buy it online or directly once you arrive in Anchorage. Write down the addresses of the places that sell it so you can go straight there, because it is not stocked everywhere.
We recommend that you book ahead for activities such as the cruises, which are usually in high demand and only hold a limited number of discounted places. You can book by email; you have to say that you will be using a Tour Saver coupon and they will ask you for a reference number. If you have not bought it yet, do not worry: they will take the booking anyway and you can give them the number when you arrive.
Why it matters to travel with insurance
The United States does not have a public health system like the Spanish one, where medical care is free. That means that if you are unlucky enough to have an accident or a health problem, you may find yourself forced to pay an astronomical bill. The cost of being seen at a private hospital or clinic is very, very high.
For that reason (and for many others, such as the peace of mind of knowing you are covered) travelling to Alaska with good insurance is essential. I recommend Heymondo for its value for money and, above all, for its app with a 24-hour medical chat and the option of a video consultation.
The Heymondo app is one of its main advantages. Knowing that at any moment you have a doctor available to ask about anything or to get advice is a great relief. From the app you can also handle any incident or make a free assistance call.
As a reader of this blog, you get 5% off any of Mondo’s travel policies, plus another 15% extra if you are travelling to Alaska as a family. I recommend doing it so you can travel to Alaska with complete peace of mind.
Bears in Alaska
Yes, this beautiful wild animal certainly deserves a small section of its own. Alaska is bear country, which does not mean you will find them on every corner, but you do have to keep them in mind at campsites and, especially, on treks. Every time you are in an area where bears are common, you will find signs warning you of the danger and, sometimes, giving you some advice. For example, if you are camping, leave nothing outside: no food, no rubbish, and no toiletries such as shampoo or toothpaste, which apparently attract them a good deal.
On treks, it is a good idea to talk out loud and carry a small bell (they are sold in many places) that makes a noise and keeps them from coming close (yes, you have to trust the theory). If that does not feel like enough, you can buy a special bear spray, which is very expensive and only works if you are very close to the animal (we came to the conclusion that if we were that close we would not even manage to get it out).
Getting ready to travel to Alaska
As well as the links I have been giving you, comb the internet for information. We found travel forums very helpful for up-to-date facts and practical tips from people who have just come back. The thread Alaska en verano on the Foro Los Viajeros (in Spanish) is especially useful.
As for guidebooks, we used two: one in Spanish, the El País Aguilar one, and one in English, the Rough Guide. The latter turned out to be more practical because it includes addresses, prices, small maps… Luckily, Lonely Planet now has an Alaska guidebook in Spanish too.
