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[blockquote]Jealousy sometimes, perhaps once every century, leads to a masterpiece.[/blockquote]
The spectacular Monreale Cathedral, about 10 kilometers from Palermo (Sicily), is the perfect example of this provocative statement.
Monreale Cathedral, a work of jealousy or spirituality
Rumor has it, perhaps more steeped in legend than in true history, that the Norman king William II was fuming at the power emanating from the English archbishop Walter of the Mill, who supervised the work on the Palermo Cathedral and had great support among the nobility. If we add to that that his very grandfather, King Roger II, had commissioned the delightful Cappella Palatina and the Cefalù Cathedral, William had no choice but to challenge both, demonstrating his supremacy through an imposing construction that proclaimed the classic “mine is better.”
If you prefer the religious versions, other tales tell that he had a heavenly dream in which the Virgin Mary herself pointed out the exact spot where a great treasure left by his father was hidden, which was to be dedicated to building a church.
Whether it was spirituality or ambition, William II took only ten years to finish this jewel of Italian art from the Middle Ages, so in 1184 he could rest easy as his work looked magnanimous thanks to the thousands of kilos of gold used in the interior mosaics depicting biblical scenes. Tiny golden tesserae that offer us a walk through the tortuous story of Adam and Eve, represent the vicissitudes of Noah’s Ark, or reflect different scenes from the life of Christ.
If you are overwhelmed by such a sparkle filled with mysticism, the best thing is to go out to breathe some air and to enjoy the Sicilian horizon by climbing to the roof of the cathedral. On the first level, you can overlook the courtyard of the cloister of the Benedictine monastery adjacent to the Duomo with the Sicilian mountains in the background. From above, perhaps you will breathe the mixture of Byzantine and Arab influence that caresses the walls and wanders through an army of beautiful columns that seem to stoically support King William’s ambition.
To continue the visit you must pass through a dark and narrow passage, after which you find yourself walking across the roof of the cathedral in a fun acrobatic exercise. Whether you have claustrophobia or vertigo, it’s better to wait below, protected by the mosaics. Above, the reward goes to your gaze, which scales rooftops and roofs until it rests on the Mediterranean Sea, before which a dense and weathered Palermo appears.
Practical information for visiting Monreale Cathedral
(updated December 2021)
How to get from Palermo to Monreale
If you don’t have a car, the best option for going from Palermo to Monreale is the 389 bus which leaves from Piazza Indipendenza with a frequency of about 20 minutes (except weekends and holidays) and drops you at the very door of the Monreale Duomo after approximately 30 minutes.
The ticket costs 1.30 euros, but the patience you need to wait for the bus cannot be measured in money. Apparently there is another bus that also takes you to this town and leaves from the Palermo Centrale train station.
How much it costs to enter Monreale Cathedral
On the official website of the Monreale Duomo you won’t find this information because it is quite vague. To be clear, entrance to Monreale Cathedral is free if you visit as an individual. Being able to go up to the terraces costs 2 euros and, in my view, it’s more than recommended. Once up there, you can decide whether or not it’s worth paying 6 euros to enter the cloister of the Benedictine monastery. I didn’t do it and now I regret it. You can also visit the diocesan museum for about 4 euros.
If you go on your own and want to understand well everything your eyes see, a good option is to take the audio guide for 5 euros.
According to the official website, if you go on a guided group tour, you will have to pay 4 euros as a contribution to the maintenance of Monreale Cathedral. If children accompany you, those under 12 don’t pay anything.
Another idea is to book this private tour of Palermo in advance, in which in addition to seeing the cathedral accompanied by an English-speaking guide, you will also visit the city and learn a lot of curiosities and historical facts.
Opening hours to visit Monreale Cathedral
The hours are Monday to Saturday from 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM and from 2:00 PM to 5:15 PM.
Sundays from 2:00 PM to 5:15 PM.
Keep in mind that the last entrance will always be 15 minutes before closing time. Also, if your visit coincides with a liturgical service, you won’t be able to enter.
Practical tips:
If you go in summer and are a woman, I recommend that you keep your shoulders covered and do not wear anything excessively short. Otherwise, they will make you pay for a kind of white gown to cover yourself with. For lovers of art or religion, it is not a bad idea to bring binoculars to admire the craftsmanship of the mosaics up close and in detail.
Where to stay in Monreale
To be honest, I cannot recommend any accommodation because I visited it on a round trip from Palermo by bus. In any case, if you plan to stay for a night, here you can choose from a multitude of hotels in Monreale.
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[check_list]Don’t forget to take out travel insurance to be well covered and with Covid coverage. Here you can get your Mondo travel insurance with a 5% discount.[/check_list]
