If I think about what to see in Dublin, the first memory that crosses my mind is them. I know, normally you would remember a monument, that charming little alley, a special experience, or that delicious dinner. However, the city would not be the same without them; they are part of its DNA and I still seem to hear them if I close my eyes. Their squawks reign over any other sound, imposing themselves on the left-handed traffic that drills the asphalt and silencing the worn-out notes of the street guitars stationed on every corner.
It is Dublin’s soundtrack, a nautical melody, at times maddening, that goes completely unnoticed by many tourists too busy searching for the perfect pint. However, you only need to pay a little attention, stop for a few seconds to observe, to discover them demonstrating their hegemony everywhere: in the landscaped esplanade of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, in the pond of St. Stephen’s Green park, or among the numerous bridges of the River Liffey.
They dare to go far beyond the coast to fearlessly enter the great metropolis and, bit by bit, expand their territory. They fly over the Irish capital with a fierce sense of ownership, feeling like owners of every neighborhood and every square, challenging with their salt-filled pupils anyone who dares to look at them. They do not back down; on the contrary, they embolden themselves and beat their wings with ill-tempered force to clear their path for landing. The first time I saw them was in a more logical place, the fishing village of Howth, half an hour from Dublin. But I never thought that later I would stumble upon them again and again in Dublin as well.
Seagulls do not appear in travel guides, nor in the lists of essentials for what to see in Dublin and its surroundings. However, I returned with the feeling that they are the masters and mistresses, necessary protagonists for the green and grey Irish film of this city to make sense. If you are going to travel to Dublin, sooner or later, you will end up looking at its leaden sky to search among the clouds for the origin of those squawks that faithfully accompany you on each of your visits. And now, yes, I will talk to you about cathedrals and so on, which is to say, I’ll tell you what to see in Dublin.
What to see in Dublin
I admit that Dublin is not one of those cities where monuments pile up one after another in a display of hypnotic beauty. However, the capital of the Republic of Ireland has other weapons to seduce the visitor, perhaps less magnificent than a Paris or a Rome but equally effective. There will be those who like this city of the Emerald Isle for its flavor of beer and for that atmosphere—somewhere between rogue, bohemian, cultural, and festive— that the cobblestones of the streets of Temple Bar give off. This is the city’s most famous and vibrant neighborhood, where pubs compete to fill their bars and tables, but where you will also find art galleries, photographic exhibitions, music stores, clothing, books… If you are there on a Saturday, don’t miss the food market set up in Meeting House Sq.
A most friendly city
Although I didn’t have much time to explore it, and I know I will need a second visit, I liked Dublin for its friendly face and hospitality; that is probably why it is known as the city of a thousand welcomes. Already on my previous trip to the south of Ireland, I was surprised by the pleasant way of being of the Irish: hospitable, talkative, with a sense of humor, and sociable. A character, in some ways similar to the Spanish, that makes you feel very comfortable, through which you will quickly strike up a conversation at the bar of any pub and which will help you find that street you are looking for on that complicated map you carry. Another common point with us is that they are not boring at all and they like to have fun, so surprises may await you around the corner. Will you join the party?
If you have time, there is a highly recommended experience to get to know its inhabitants more closely and learn directly from them everything you want to know about this city. Thanks to an innovative initiative you will be able to share some time chatting with a real Dubliner who, on a voluntary basis, will be something like your personal ambassador. If you want to try it, you just have to register at this link and make the most of your meeting, whether sharing a pint of beer in hand or a good meal. To top off the magnificence of this activity, it is also free. You can ask them, for example, to tell you about Dublin’s gastronomy and thus you will discover that there is much more than just the delicious Irish stew. Fish and seafood are very present in pubs and markets, and you might even be surprised to learn that Dubliners claim the origin of the famous British fish and chips.
Dublin, literary city
Another aspect that charmed me about Dublin is that literary halo that floods its streets. The same ones through which Leopold Bloom, the protagonist of the novel Ulysses by James Joyce, wandered during that mythical day. Whether you are among the praised stubborn ones who finished reading the entire book, or if you are “only” an avid reader in general, you will surely enjoy following in the footsteps of this Irish writer and many other wordsmiths professionals like Samuel Beckett or Oscar Wilde who left their mark on Dublin. Of course, the perfect day to honor the famous Ulysses is June 16th during BloomsDay, an almost carnival-style celebration during which the most devoted fans dress in period clothing, there are performances of the work, public readings, and walks to make a pilgrimage through the settings of the novel. But outside of that day there are many other literary attractions such as visiting the Writers Museum or losing yourself without haste among its libraries.
The most famous of all, without a doubt, is the impressive Long Room found inside the Old Library, Ireland’s largest library. In this spectacular hall, you can ask for time to stand still to quietly browse among the multitude of shelves that zealously guard more than 200,000 books, each older than the last. Of course, you will browse from the gallery because, logically, access to the books is closed to help their preservation.
And be careful about breaking the prohibition because, in addition to the classic security cordon, there are a few dozen marble eyes of renowned philosophers and writers watching you. The best way to visit this place, which houses the ancient Book of Kells, a manuscript delicately illustrated by Celtic monks around the year 800, is to book your ticket. I definitely recommend that you buy the ticket for €12 at this link to avoid the eternal queue that forms at the door and not waste time. You can purchase it in advance and even on the same day by choosing the time that suits you best.
I almost forgot to tell you that this literary sanctuary is located within the grounds of Trinity College, the most prestigious university in Ireland. A good idea for touring its facilities is with one of the guided tours by students who will show you the history and secrets of this beautiful campus in the center of Dublin. You will find the stand to sign up next to the main entrance by College Green. There are passes in English every half hour but if you want it in Spanish, watch out because they only do one a day; last July it was at 11:50 but the schedule probably changes. The price of €14 is more than affordable considering it includes entry to the Long Room to see the Book of Kells.
Walking through the center
If you have been left wanting more books, not far away you have another interesting and even more curious library, the Chester Beatty Library. Here, in addition to literary works, you will find manuscripts, clay tablets, paintings, and various objects of interest. But if you don’t decide to go, upon leaving Trinity College, a good idea is to walk down Grafton Street, the liveliest pedestrian street in the city. Pay attention to all the facades, pubs, restaurants, shops, street performances, and flower stalls you will find and let yourself be carried away by the atmosphere it exudes. Don’t forget to explore the surrounding alleys that hide many surprises.
After so much activity, at the end of the street, you will find an ideal place to lie down and rest. St. Stephen’s Green park is a lung in the center of the city perfect for taking a break, walking, or seeing the swans in the lake while ignoring the famous seagulls. Don’t believe that it’s always cloudy in Ireland because the sun also makes an appearance, and that is the ideal time to choose a corner of this park and lie on the grass.
Much more to see in Dublin
Obviously, the route through the center of Dublin can be extended with many more visits. You can compare, for example, the city’s religious temples: St Patrick’s Cathedral and Christ Church Cathedral. You also have the option to visit Dublin Castle, , an ancient Norman fortress to which different annexes were added in different periods until it attained the palace-like appearance it has today. Another classic is to go and touch the statue of Molly Malone, a seafood street seller with the air of a prostitute who stars in an Irish song, and has now become a true symbol. Note that she has changed location and is now located on Suffolk Street, in front of the tourism office.
Although I didn’t visit it, one of the essentials to see in Dublin is Guinness Storehouse, the old warehouse where the famous Guinness beer was fermented has now been converted into a place of pilgrimage for lovers of this drink. You will learn everything from how it is made or how it was transported, to how it was sold through its marketing campaigns, and even how to pour a good pint. Upstairs, a bar with 360-degree panoramic views of the city awaits you.
Kilmainham Gaol, history behind bars
I couldn’t visit that place, but I do recommend another as a must-see among the things to see in Dublin: the Kilmainham Gaol prison. Right next to the IMMA, the Irish Museum of Modern Art, you will find this old prison that was an unwelcome witness to a piece of history in Ireland’s bloody struggle for independence. Some of its prisoners were important leaders and activists who ended up in the cold and dark cells that you can peek into if you take the interesting guided tour offered. To avoid making the trip in vain, I recommend that you book the tour here in advance as otherwise you will most likely find there are no spots left.
I should warn you that the guided tour is only in English, but it is the only way to access the heart of the prison and discover its corridors. If your English isn’t sufficient to understand everything the guide says in detail, or simply if you want to know more about this place, I recommend that you read this post from the Objetivo Viajar blog. One of the highlights of the tour is the incredible Victorian wing of the east side where, for example, scenes from the film In the Name of the Father.
Obviously, there is much more to see in Dublin, but as on any trip, you have to choose based on available time and personal preferences. If you have more suggestions for visits, don’t hesitate to share them with the rest. And if you are about to discover the capital of Ireland, please give my regards to the seagulls.
