Iceland is a giant collection of breathtaking landscapes. However, a destination like this that draws a gesture of admiration on your face after every bend in the road runs the risk, at some point, of satiating your capacity for surprise. What if a point comes where you stop sighing at a new waterfall, no matter how dazzling it may be? The answer is clear: go to Vestrahorn.
If you feel you are close to feeling that hint of weariness from beauty overload, do not hesitate; stop at Vestrahorn. This essential place to see in Iceland is the best possible medicine for such a case.
What am I going to find in Vestrahorn?
Vestrahorn is a majestic black mountain that, with a certain dramatic air, rises imposingly over the wild Stokksnes beach, in eastern Iceland. Just by gazing at its row of peaks determinedly piercing the clouds at 450 meters high, that gesture of admiration you thought you were about to lose will immediately return to your face.
But if, in addition, your visit coincides with low tide, Vestrahorn’s silhouette will be reflected in the black sand of Stokksnes. The image returned by that ephemeral mirror is so overwhelming that it is even capable of moving you. Your pupils will not tire of gazing at that postcard and your camera will not stop trying to capture the strange magnetism of the place through photos.
Vestrahorn and Stokksnes beach form the perfect duo. One cannot be conceived without the other. One wouldn’t look the same without the other. Together they compose an inhospitable landscape located in a remote place, in the middle of nowhere, a setting as arid as it is elegant, as overwhelming as it is hypnotic, as rugged as it is attractive.
And this mountain, known as the ‘Batman mountain’ because its jagged silhouette recalls the symbol of this superhero, could not have a better staging. At its feet it has the best possible carpet, a suggestive black sand beach dotted with dunes that the powerful Icelandic wind never stops shaping. Stokksnes displays a wild beauty that, instead of rivaling that of Vestrahorn, is dedicated to exalting it.
Did you know that Vestrahorn mountain is made of lava? This curious mountain is formed of igneous rock, that is, of solidified magma. Hence that colour somewhere between black and brown that gives it a certain tragic air.
Additionally, at the end of the track through which you access the views of Vestrahorn, there is a lighthouse and a NATO radar station, which obviously cannot be accessed.
A bit of history
The most important fishing port in the region was located here until, in 1987, Höfn began to stand out and stole the spotlight. For years, both the remains of the fishermen’s huts and the boats they used could be seen. However, in 1940 everything was destroyed by the US Navy in the middle of the Second World War.
This area and the region, known as Hafnartangi, became a strategic point during this war conflict. Both the British Navy first, and the US Navy later, built observation posts, barracks, a lighthouse, and chimneys here. The latter were used to mislead and confuse enemy planes flying over the area in search of targets with smoke. It still seems possible to see some of the remains of those constructions, but I do not know the location.
To add more drama to the place, Stokksnes beach was the scene of several shipwrecks. The most remembered episode in this regard occurred at the end of the 19th century when several French ships were wrecked and more than thirty crew members arrived at the beach. The local people were in charge of helping them and providing them with shelter during the harsh Icelandic winter. A gesture of generosity that the French Government took care to thank later.
When is the best time to visit Vestrahorn?
A difficult question to answer due to the changing and complicated Icelandic weather. But this place also has its magic in almost all its variations: clear, semi-hidden behind clouds, with a blanket of snow, at sunrise, at sunset, under the midnight sun and, of course, covered in Northern Lights.
In summer, the place is more accessible, since you have to drive along a gravel track to get there and the weather should theoretically be milder. However, it is also possible to visit in the winter months.
In my case, I was there just at the beginning of June at midday. Upon arrival, it was almost completely covered by clouds, which was quite disappointing. But, little by little, patches of blue sky began to appear until, once I had already left, the sun prevailed and I ran back to enjoy it.
How to get to Vestrahorn
Vestrahorn is in eastern Iceland. This mountain rises as a natural border between the winding East Fjords and the brutal Southeast, where the domains of Iceland’s great ice lord, the Vatnajökull glacier, begin. From the Ring Road, the highway that circles the island, you will only have to detour for 10 minutes along a gravel track in good condition.
Note that knowing how to get to Vestrahorn is not as simple as asking your GPS or Google Maps. In my case, I did the latter and kept looking out of the car window the whole way hoping to see the silhouette of Vestrahorn that I had seen in many photos appear at any moment. However, I passed right by without seeing it. To prevent the same thing from happening to you, take note.
The address you should search for in your navigator to get to Vestrahorn is that of the Viking Cafe. Thus, the GPS will take you straight to this cafeteria, which is the gateway to Stokksnes beach, from where you can take the most famous photo of this mountain.
But beware, that will be after paying an access fee of 900 crowns (about 6.5 euros), which you can pay by card.
The explanation is that the land where the gravel track providing access to the beach is located is private property. Thus, to get to Vestrahorn you have to pay the entrance fee at the Viking Café and they will give you a small cardboard card that raises the barrier blocking access.
Keep in mind that those 900 ISK allow you to enter for a whole day, which is great if you want to return at different times to take photos with different light. Or if, as was my case, just as you get in the car to leave, the sky suddenly clears and you go back like crazy to enjoy it again with sun and no clouds.
What to do in Vestrahorn
Take a look at everything you can do once you’ve passed the entrance barrier.
Stroll, enjoy and take photos
The best activity to do in Vestrahorn is to go for a stroll. Walking on the beach, walking by the lagoon, walking and looking, looking and walking. Seeing the fascinating moving picture being drawn live in front of you is totally addictive. Simply taking a stroll along Stokksnes beach, enjoying the scenery and looking for the best angle for photos is well worth it. Depending on the tide, you can also see the mirror effect.
Visit a ‘Viking village’
At the base of the mountain, there is a recreation of a Viking village that was set up in 2010 as a set for the filming of a movie that never came to fruition. Now you can walk through it and imagine rough Vikings covered in furs walking with their axes among the wooden huts.
I didn’t visit because I preferred to spend my time contemplating Vestrahorn, but judging by the comments I read, this spot is currently (June 2022) in a ruinous state. Only if you have extra time would it be worth a visit.
Spotting animals
Spotting animals is another of the things to do in Vestrahorn. There are several resident and migratory birds that pass through here. Additionally, it’s not unusual for the head of a seal to peek out from the choppy Atlantic waters. I, for instance, was lucky enough to see a seal swimming very close to the beach.
If you dare to walk to the end of this small peninsula, there are more opportunities for spotting seals. When you pay for entry at the Viking Cafe, they give you a small brochure with a simple map where you’ll see the spot marked where they usually frolic and the path you should follow.
With a lot, lot, lots of luck, you might even see a stray whale swimming near the coast. I didn’t have any, but legend says there are lucky people who have found them.
Riding a quad bike
If active tourism is your thing and you feel like doing something different, you can also tour the area with a quad bike excursion or ATV as they call it there. Minors under 17 cannot do it and you need a driver’s license. The route lasts about an hour and costs 11,000 ISK (about 107 euros).
Galloping along the beach
Another activity to do in Vestrahorn is to view it on horseback. The family that owns the Viking Café also manages a riding stable right there, so you can go on a horseback ride for about two and a half hours to explore Stokksnes beach at a walk, trot, or gallop. Would you like that?
Where to stay in Vestrahorn
If you want to view Vestrahorn at different times of the day to see how it changes according to the light, the best option is to sleep right there. The Viking Cafe itself manages a hostel and a campsite with the best possible location, at the very foot of this volcanic mountain.
From there, you can jump out of bed as soon as the sky clears, photograph the sunrise and sunset, and even, with luck, wait in the early morning for the Northern Lights to caress the peaks of Vestrahorn with their dance. Without a doubt, it’s the most special place to stay in Vestrahorn.
Of course, if you’re sure you want to sleep nestled by the mountain, I recommend booking in advance because beds here are highly coveted. You can find a double room with breakfast from 130 euros.
If you want to camp, whether with a tent, a camper van, or a motorhome, the price is 2,000 ISK per person (about 14 euros). It includes the beach entrance fee, Wi-Fi connection, showers, and bathrooms in very good condition. However, it doesn’t have a communal kitchen, though you can have soup and a sandwich at the cafe.
Twenty minutes away by car, you have quite a few hotels in Höfn to choose from. Additionally, in this fishing town, there is a supermarket, specifically a Netto, which in these remote Icelandic parts is a precious asset. In Höfn, you’ll also find a gas station, restaurants where you can try the famous local langoustines, and a viewpoint overlooking the glaciers that is well worth visiting.
In my case, I didn’t stay the night there, as it was an intermediate stop. The night before I slept to the north, in the East Fjords, specifically in Djúpivogur, an hour’s drive away. It was a magical night because we were surrounded by wild reindeer that could be seen through the huge window of the Bragdavellir Cottages wooden cabin. One of my favorite accommodations of the trip to Iceland which cost €135 for five people in early June.
And the next two nights, less than an hour south, were in a self-catering apartment at Lækjarhus Farm Holidays farm. This time, instead of reindeer, it was horses. I also recommend it because it was only twenty minutes from the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon and Diamond Beach where prices skyrocket. This accommodation cost €226 for five people, the most expensive of the trip.
If I were to return to Vestrahorn, I would definitely try to stay at the Viking Cafe hostel to be able to witness that brutal landscape at sunset and sunrise.
What to do near Vestrahorn
Sail in a glacial lagoon… or two
If Vestrahorn is already one of the essential places to see in Iceland, less than an hour away you have two more. Drive south to Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. You can park for free practically on the shore where you will already have a spectacular view. But I encourage you to explore the lagoon by sailing among the icebergs to have a very special memory of your time in Iceland.
You have three different options for navigating the icy waters of Jökulsárlón. If you are going to Iceland with children who are very young, the only one you will be able to do is the amphibious boat which takes a short half-hour journey across the lagoon. The price is 6,000 ISK (about 42 euros) for adults, 3,000 ISK (about 21 euros) for children between 6 and 12 years old, and free for little ones up to five years old included.
The second option would be riding in a zodiac which lasts twice as long but also costs almost double, 11,000 ISK (almost 80 euros). Children are allowed from 10 years of age.
And the last option, but for me the most recommended, is to take the kayak tour through the Jökulsárlón lagoon accompanied by a guide. Besides being the most ecological option, as it does not pollute, you will be able to get very close to the icebergs and greet the seals up close.
In my case, I chose the amphibious boat because I was with a baby and two children aged 3 and 5. But I know that kayaking is a brutal experience because I did it in a glacial lagoon on my trip to Alaska and it was unforgettable.
Although Jökulsárlón is the queen of the place, ten minutes away by car, heading south, is its little sister: Fjallsárlón glacier lagoon where it is also possible to do the zodiac tour and a glacier trek. It is worth at least stopping to take a walk along the shore, also near the car park, because it is another beautiful spot to see.
Walk along Diamond Beach
From the Jökulsárlón lagoon, a small river flows out, which ends just a few meters ahead in the Atlantic. Depending on the current and the waves, some of the icebergs and pieces of ice that navigate that very short river land on the beach shore, remaining stranded like gleaming diamonds that stand out against the black sand.
Welcome to Diamond Beach! It is another of the places to see in Iceland completely free. Take out your camera again and enjoy.
Walk through the heart of a glacier
You are in the domains of Vatnajökull, Iceland’s largest glacier and the second largest in Europe, a massive ice field of 8,000 square kilometers. Did you know that you can walk on it to feel the ice crunch under your feet? And that you can even explore its interior?
I suggest you put on your crampons and experience both activities in a single day with the trekking on the Vatnajökull glacier and the blue ice cave tour. Going deep into the heart of a glacier and admiring shades of blue you didn’t know existed must be something unforgettable.
The importance of traveling safely to Iceland
If you are preparing for your trip to Iceland, don’t forget to take out good travel insurance that covers you from medical care, accidents, loss of luggage and, of course, any possible cancellation that would make you lose a lot of money given that, as you know, this is a fairly expensive destination.
During my trips, I use Mondo insurance with which you can have up to €5,000,000 in medical expenses. One of the things I like most about this insurance is the app that offers you a 24-hour medical chat to consult any doubt or emergency. Having a medical professional available at all times to listen and advise you gives great peace of mind, especially in a destination like Iceland where distances to a medical center can be very long.
Some people discard insurance because they think it is a very expensive service. How much do you think your peace of mind costs? What is the price for someone to help you manage a complicated moment in an unknown country?
From just €17 per person, you can have Mondo travel insurance for a one-week stay in Iceland. A price that will be even cheaper with the 5% discount for being a reader of this blog. It’s worth paying that to be able to forget about worries and dedicate yourself only to enjoying, right?
More articles about Iceland: What to see in Iceland: 100 places to admire and enjoy Iceland with Kids: 20 Amazing Things to Do for the Whole Family Hotels in Iceland: Recommended Accommodations and How to Sleep for Free!
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