Sheltered between the rough waters of the Caribbean Sea and a serene network of canals, the village of Tortuguero, Costa Rica, tries to protect the treasure of biodiversity it hides. Sea turtles, sloths, toucans, crocodiles, and even jaguars await the visitor in this national park to take them on an unforgettable journey.
Tortuguero Costa Rica, why it is so special
Anyone planning to travel to Tortuguero on their own will be surprised to learn that it can only be accessed by boat as there are no roads, nor paved streets, and therefore, you will return without having come across a single car. A truly relaxing cure for stress without the need for spas or massages. A few days strolling through the sandy streets of Tortuguero, paddling in the canals that run through the jungle, or watching the turtles nesting will be enough to return with your eyes full of moments to remember from this natural paradise.
But this is a paradise that has nothing to do with the typical perception of the Caribbean, since there are no crystal-clear white sand beaches or large all-inclusive resorts here. Tortuguero is a very different kind of Caribbean, a Caribbean of black sand beaches and dangerous currents, small accommodations, and hiking boots. Keeping all this in mind, and if you are truly a nature lover, you just have to put your backpack on your shoulders and let yourself go to discover the charm of this other Caribbean.
Located in the northeast of Costa Rica, this small and picturesque village of colorful houses with fewer than a hundred inhabitants looks like a tiny island. On one side, Tortuguero is bathed on one side by the Caribbean Sea and on the other by the calm canals.
But the water also comes from the sky because this is one of the wettest regions in the whole country and tropical downpours are practically daily. There is no dry season, although the months with the least rain in Tortuguero Costa Rica are February, March, and October. In any case, it doesn’t matter what time of year you visit because they enjoy an average temperature of 26ºC year-round.
What to do in Tortuguero Costa Rica
Since you have arrived in this very special and remote corner of Costa Rica, now it’s time to make the most of your stay. Tortuguero is an important and very touristy destination thanks to all its attractions. Here I leave you the most important ones so you know what to do in Tortuguero.
Watching sea turtles nesting
If you can choose and what you want is to witness a spectacle of nature, I recommend traveling to Tortuguero from March to October to have the chance to see the sea turtles nesting. The one that arrives in the greatest numbers is the green turtle, but you can also see hawksbill, loggerhead, and leatherback turtles. The latter is the largest species of all, reaching over 400 kilos in weight.
The beach where the turtles lay their eggs is included within the Tortuguero National Park, which protects more than 20,000 terrestrial hectares and nearly 50,000 marine hectares. This is an attempt to preserve these animals, whose survival is becoming increasingly difficult, as best as possible.
The turtle watching tour begins at night, which is when the turtles emerge from the sea and crawl slowly across the sand until they find the ideal spot to dig and lay their eggs. It is advisable to wear dark clothing and it is strictly forbidden to take photographs to avoid the flash disturbing them, as they are extremely sensitive to light. So you will have to hold the scene in your memory which, undoubtedly, you will hardly be able to forget.
The most curious thing about these animals is that, without knowing exactly why, turtles always return to nest on the same beach where they were born. When a little turtle hatches, it runs across the sand towards the sea. It seems that if, at that moment, it is picked up in someone’s hands and placed directly in the water, it will not return to that beach when it is an adult. That first walk across the sand leaves in them a kind of indelible memory trace that will lead them every two years to swim from the deep ocean to Tortuguero to nest.
If you haven’t been lucky enough to see a nesting, perhaps you will come across hatchings and be fascinated by a tiny turtle navigating obstacles to reach the sea.
Navigate the canals of Tortuguero National Park, Costa Rica
But there are not only turtles here. The Tortuguero National Park, created in 1975 by a decree law, boasts of being home to hundreds of species of trees, plants, mammals, reptiles, birds, amphibians, fish, and insects. A whole box of surprises ready to open in a different way every time a traveler discovers it.
A canoe paddling trip is the best way to enjoy the canals of Tortuguero. There are also motorboats, but the noise they make causes the animals to hide as they pass. You have to get up early to leave at 6:00 am when the animals are most active. In at least two hours, we can discover caimans sunbathing on a log, spider monkeys jumping from one branch to another, white and blue herons walking among water lilies, a surprising perfectly camouflaged basilisk, or an anteater walking along the tree trunks.
Climb to the top of Tortuguero Hill
Another essential excursion, but one that many people are unaware of, is climbing to the top of Tortuguero Hill which, at 119 meters, is the highest point in this area of the Caribbean. Find a guide, put on some rubber boots, and get ready to walk through mud and slush for about two hours. Once at the top, the spectacular views are worth it. At your feet, you will see the village as a long and very narrow strip of land surrounded by water and full of vegetation.
Stroll through the village of Tortuguero and meet the ticos
Once back down, take a walk through the village, breathe in its atmosphere, talk to the “ticos” (as Costa Ricans are known) and you will be caught up in their lively pace of life. You will be surprised that they even invite you into their homes, which shows their kind and helpful character. Ten minutes with a tico and you’ll feel like old friends. After all this, you won’t even remember that you haven’t gone for a swim at the beach.
Behold the wildest Caribbean Sea in Tortuguero
If you want, you can get your feet wet on the beach in Tortuguero, but do not go any further in because it is not suitable for swimming. The currents are quite strong and dangerous and watch out because, as if that were not enough, it is not uncommon to find sharks in its waters. This is the only downside to Tortuguero; everything else only confirms that it is the pearl of the Costa Rican Caribbean, a Caribbean very different from the idyllic image you may have in mind.
Which guides to go on excursions with in Tortuguero
The town of Tortuguero lives on tourism, so it is understandable that there are guides everywhere. Most are experts and know the area perfectly; still, it is better to make sure at the Park offices that the one you choose is one of the official guides who have taken exhaustive courses to prepare themselves and know how to act in case of danger. Moreover, unofficial guides have limited access to some areas of the channels and you will miss out on special corners.
To paddle a canoe through the rivers and lagoons, Castor Hunter is one of the most experienced since his father was the pioneer in exploring them. His lynx-like vision discovers animals with astonishing ease. I was lucky enough to go alone with him, paddling alongside my companion on this trip. Ask for him at soda Doña María.
Equally recommended is the Canadian naturalist Daryl Loth, highly recognized among the scientific community for his contributions. You can find him at the cabins he runs, Casa Marbella.
Ideally, to get to know Tortuguero calmly and take one or several trips through its canals, you should stay there for at least one or two nights. But in case you have little time, a good option could be to hire a guided tour of the National Park of Tortuguero that includes transport, picking you up and returning you to your hotel without having to worry about anything else.
How to get to Tortuguero, Costa Rica:
You have direct flights from Madrid to the capital of Costa Rica, San José. Once there, do not be swayed by travel agencies, as they will all say it is not possible to go to Tortuguero on your own. It is not true; dare to get there on your own. You can do it by boat or by light aircraft.
The quickest and easiest way to get to Tortuguero is to fly from the capital, San José, by light aircraft, although it is also the most expensive option. There are two companies that fly to the town Nature Air and Sansa, which has three daily flights.
From the Caribbean bus station in San José, you have to take the one to Cariari which costs about $2.50. Once there, there are three companies that will offer you transport to Tortuguero. Two of them, Clic-Clic and Coopetraca, do the same route, which is the most common. First, you will take a public bus to La Pavona, where a boat will be waiting for you at the pier to take you directly to Tortuguero. This combined bus and boat ticket will cost you about $5. The third company, Viajes Bananero, uses another way to get there, faster but significantly more expensive at $10.
If you are traveling in a rental car, you can drive it to the La Pavona pier itself where you can buy the ticket for the boat. In La Pavona, there is a supervised car park where they will charge you $10 for each night you leave the car.
If after your stay in Tortuguero you want to continue towards the southern Caribbean, it is most recommended to use another route to leave. Ask in town for the boats to Moín (Limón). Viajes Bananero offers this option for about $35.
Where to sleep in Tortuguero:
If you want to discover Tortuguero in depth and soak up the friendly character of its people, it is best to sleep in the town itself. You will find plenty of quite affordable cabins, some with private or shared bathrooms, as well as hot or cold water. Cabinas is the name given to the most modest pensions or accommodation, although many hotels in Tortuguero have adopted that nomenclature. Here we recommend Cabinas Tortuguero, where for $25 you can also take a nap in the hammocks hanging from their terrace. We stayed at Hotel Miss Junie, which now charges a whopping $50 but includes a hearty typical breakfast from the area that we thoroughly enjoyed.
For those seeking comfort and with a larger budget, there are several hotels along the canals. All offer two-night packages that include accommodation, meals, transport from San José, and a couple of guided tours. But be careful because you have to pay the national park entrance fee separately ($10) and if you want to see the nocturnal turtle nesting it will cost you $30, more than double what it costs if you hire it in town. One of the most beautiful is Pachira Lodge with a pool and beautiful gardens. But Mawamba Lodge has the advantage of being the only one from which you can reach the town on foot.
Where to eat in Tortuguero:
After having woken up early for the canal excursion, you will need a good breakfast like the one served at Dorling Bakery. In this bakery, you can taste the famous Costa Rican coffee ($1.20) along with the typical tres leches cake ($1).
You cannot leave Tortuguero without enjoying the pleasant Caribbean food. The most common dish is the casado, white rice with black beans, fried plantain, and some meat or fish. If you accompany it with a tropical fruit smoothie the result will be perfect. An excellent place to taste this combination for about $5 is Miss Miriam.
At night I recommend a good seafood dish slow-cooked in coconut sauce. Miss Junnies is the most famous restaurant in town and they prepare it deliciously. It’s really worth stopping by and taking their advice, although leaving without trying the lobster ($9) is a real crime.
Another star dish of Costa Rican gastronomy is shrimp and its thousand ways of preparation. At Buddha Café they make delicious crepes with them that you can enjoy sitting on their outdoor terrace by the river.
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7 tips to keep in mind for traveling to Tortuguero:
1- Don’t forget to pack everything you need in your backpack so you don’t end up soaking during an unexpected tropical rain. The most useful thing is a good raincoat or rain poncho, but remember to also carry a good dose of patience so as not to despair at the downpour; most of the time it lasts very little and the sun soon shines.
2- Another indispensable item in your luggage will be repellent against the dreaded mosquitoes. Pay special attention particularly at dawn and dusk. If you plan to stay in budget cabins, it would be good to include a mosquito net for protection during the night.
3- When you are in the canoe trying to find a brown spot in a tree that the guide says is a sloth, you will remember how useful binoculars would have been. With them, time will stand still for you as you observe up close the behavior of any animal, such as this spider monkey.
4- Before traveling, check your passport; to enter the country, it must have at least six months of validity.
5- The Caribbean sun beats down very, very hard, so it is recommended that you always go well-slathered in a good sunscreen. To complete the kit, you should also include a cap or hat and, above all, do not go out on an excursion without a bottle of water.
6- Although dollars are accepted in all businesses and accommodations, the official currency is the colón. One euro is approximately equivalent to 735 colones (as of February 2022).
7- Do not go to Tortuguero Costa Rica without travel insurance to enjoy peace of mind. Any unforeseen event or minor accident that requires medical attention can cost you a lot of money if you are not well covered. Furthermore, now that Covid-19 can ruin your plans, it is even more important to go with a good insurance like Mondo.
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Five curiosities about Tortuguero Costa Rica:
1 -At Tortuguero beach, four of the eight species of sea turtles found worldwide arrive to nest. For years, locals believed their eggs had aphrodisiac powers, so nests were looted. Today, many of the thieves who participated in these robberies dedicate themselves to protecting these Jurassic animals with care.
2 -The inhabitants of the village are proud of their remote and quiet location. For that reason, years ago, when they were given the opportunity to go to the polls to vote in a referendum on the construction of a road that would bring them closer to the rest of civilization, a majority and resounding No won.
3 – The famous canals of Tortuguero Costa Rica were created in the late 60s thanks to an engineering project that connected river meanders and natural lagoons scattered throughout the area. In this way, faster and safer waterways were opened that also avoided the dangerous sea voyage. Today, the canals are one of the main tourist attractions.
4 –Traveling through Costa Rica, you will discover that in each of its towns there is always a primary school and an amazing grass football field. Tortuguero is no exception, so it is quite an experience to see the lively school life of the little ones and get carried away playing a match with them. This care for building schools in all corners of the country explains why it has a literacy rate of 97%.
5- In this small “Amazon”, a large number of endangered animals difficult to find in other parts of the world are concentrated. Thus, it is a jewel that must be preserved to continue being lucky enough to glimpse the dreaded jaguar in the distance, marvel at the colors of a toucan, enjoy a huge tapir walking among the trees, or discover the back of a mysterious manatee emerging from the water.
- Find your ideal accommodation in Tortuguero
- Enjoy tours and transfers in Costa Rica.
- Travel with your travel insurance with a 15% discount.
