Once again, the excitement and the need to experience the sensation of freedom moved us to undertake another trip unforgettable. Finally, we decided that the time had come to fulfill one of our greatest dreams, setting foot in Black Africa. This destination was always in our minds because we thought it would surely lead us to live experiences that are difficult to find in other places in the world. We chose to do a route through Namibia, Botswana and Victoria Falls y, and of course, the trip did not disappoint us.
What to see in Namibia and Botswana in 23 days of independent travel in a 4×4
Although it may seem unknown and dangerous traveling on your own to Namibia and Botswana due to the news they bombard us with every day in the media, it is not; for example, for Germans and Anglo-Saxons who, as former colonizers of these lands, spend their holidays there with a total sense of tranquility, just as can happen to us Spaniards in Latin America. We are not going to deny that you run into the reality of underdeveloped countries. Poverty, hunger, and inequality travel with you during much of the route. However, when you return, in addition to all these sensations, you also bring back in your backpack others that are very heartening, and above all, a lot of smiles.
Namibia travel itinerary
Windhoek (1 night)
The capital of Namibia does not generate much interest. We were forced to inspect it to buy some clothes and a basic hygiene kit, as our trip began without backpacks, lost on the flights and with the first difficulties in understanding the English of the natives. We will never forget the “Güa cala?” from the girl at the airport to ask us what color our lost luggage was, although now it is a mere anecdote.
After some negative feelings and under the pressure of not knowing for certain when we would recover our backpacks, we had to quickly decide whether to stay in Windhoek for a few more days or undertake the adventure without luggage, as the next morning our 4×4 was waiting for us first thing to start our route. First destination: Sesriem.
Sesriem (2 nights)
The next day, without hesitation, we set out on our way to the red desert of Namibia, within the Namib Naukluft National Park, one of the most special places we have set foot in. A 5-hour journey awaited us to forget the frustration and experience great sensations, such as enjoying a spectacular starry sky and setting up for the first time that roof tent that was going to be our home for so many days.
Near the desert, heading north, it is worth stopping in Solitaire. A gas station in the middle of nowhere surrounded by farms and where you can taste some delicious homemade cakes. A little further ahead you will cross the Tropic of Capricorn.
Swakopmund (1 night)
This town on the Atlantic coast has a clear German colonial feel in its buildings, as most of the population is of this nationality and they own many businesses or it is simply their holiday spot. It is interesting to visit its dunes just before arriving, although they are not as spectacular as those of Sesriem, but they do cause the city to have a certain mist at dawn caused by the sand and the wind.
Following the coast several kilometers to the north, you can venture into the Skeleton Coast Park along a road that runs between the desert and the ocean, with skeletons of shipwrecked vessels, sandstorms, and an absence of drivers, making it a far too daring adventure. That is why we stayed in Cape Cross, where you can see one of the largest colonies of sea lions, approximately 100,000 specimens, although it used to be more than double. Upon getting out of the 4×4, the first thing you notice is a very strong smell and the feeling of being in the middle of nowhere.
Brandberg (1 night)
Leaving the coast and heading inland, in Damaraland lies Brandberg, the highest mountain in Namibia (2,573 meters). Its name in German means mountain of fire because of the reddish color the granite takes on at sunset. Additionally, in the area, you can visit a series of cave paintings, the most famous of which is the White Lady.
Kamanjab (1 night)
Approximately one and a half hours away is the small town of Kamanjab, near which you have the possibility of visiting a Himba village, with its traditions, customs, and a very different way of life. The village is located within a farm, but if you want to know the authentic villages that still maintain their ancient lifestyle, you have to travel north, near Epupa Falls.
Otjitotongwe Cheetah Farm (1 night)
You cannot miss a visit to this farm to have the opportunity to be very close to a cheetah, even being able to pet it and, in turn, hear a haunting purr, a sensation that no matter how much you are told about it, is impossible to feel unless you are the protagonist. Unforgettable. Additionally, you will accompany the owners in their truck to feed the cheetahs they keep in a semi-wild state to ensure the survival of this species.
Etosha National Park (3 nights)
With great expectation, we arrived at the Etosha National Park, one of the most important in Africa, where if you are lucky it is possible to see the Big Five (elephant, rhinoceros, lion, leopard, and buffalo). You can pay for a guided safari or go out with your 4×4 to do it yourself and enjoy Africa in its purest state, one of the best experiences a nature lover can have. Although we didn’t see lions, we were lucky and were able to observe live as some jackals ate a springbok while the vultures waited their turn. Quite a spectacle!!
Caprivi Strip (2 nights)
It is one of the most populated and poorest areas of Namibia, a strip of land between Botswana, Angola, and Zambia. At one time it was a very conflicted area with frequent riots due to its geographical location, but today it is a calmer place. Almost 600 kilometers always in a straight line, between Rundu and the border with Botswana (Ngoma Bridge), allow you to discover life along the road; villages, schools, people moving along the asphalt carrying buckets of water and other belongings on their heads… You can also visit Popa Falls or see animals in the small Mahango Game Reserve
Botswana and Victoria Falls travel itinerary
Chobe National Park – Savuti
It is the second largest park in Botswana, with an area of 11,700 km², and maintains a great ecological variety, although it is notable for a high abundance of elephants. The Park is divided into four distinct areas: the Chobe River area, the northern entrance of the park and near Kasane; the Savuti swampy area in the west; the Linyanti River area in the northwest; and the dry and hot interior region.
Kasane (3 nights)
Once across the Ngoma Bridge border, we set foot in Botswana. The town of Kasane has nothing particularly special about it, but it is an entry point to the Chobe National Park. If you don’t have time to venture in and stay overnight within the park, you can take a river boat safari for wildlife viewing.
Victoria Falls
Due to its proximity, the city is also a strategic point to cross into Zimbabwe and visit the Victoria Falls on a day trip, even from the Zambian side. It is a must-visit place, although overly touristy where prices increase exponentially. Even so, it is worth closing your eyes and choosing one of the activities offered: rafting on the Zambezi River, flying over the falls by helicopter, bungee jumping, elephant safaris and even walking with lions…
Savuti (1 night)
The route begins next to the Chobe River where you can observe numerous species, especially elephants and buffaloes approaching the shore to drink. A tough day awaited us, covering few kilometers but taking almost eight hours to travel through the park from north to south, until reaching the Savuti Campsite. The most difficult and toughest days of driving began, as the sand and mud make the route very difficult and on some occasions it is easy to find stuck cars. The campsites in Botswana have nothing to do with those in Namibia, as they are not protected by fences and animals can walk in front of your tent at any time.
Okavango Delta
The Okavango Delta is the world’s largest inland delta, an oasis in the aridity of the country’s territory. Periodic subtropical rains from the floods of the Cubango River in central Angola cross Namibia and finally enter Botswana, creating a labyrinth of lagoons, islands and channels before disappearing into the sands of the Kalahari Desert.
Moremi National Park (3 nights)
The Moremi National Park occupies only a third of the total delta. For three days we were searching for big cats; it was our last chance and although there were sightings almost every day, which were written on a blackboard at the park entrance, we were not lucky. A great experience is to spend a day visiting the delta waters riding a Mokoro, the typical boat of the area, pushed with a long pole by a local balancing from the back. You can get extremely close to the dangerous hippos.
Maun (1 night)
It is a very active city and a meeting point for travelers leaving Moremi or heading towards the parks located to the north, doing the opposite route. It has very good infrastructure to welcome visitors and is ideal for excursions and activities, such as flying over the Okavango Delta in a light aircraft.
Ghanzi (1 night)
The last experience of the trip was in this town, very close to the Kalahari Desert. At the Ghanzi Trail Blazers campsite you can rest and learn about the lifestyle of the Bushmen, as well as their culture and jewelry.
Windhoek (1 night)
Return to the capital of Namibia and unfortunately the end of the trip.
