Between dunes and dead lagoons
There are places in the world that you know, sooner or later, you have to visit. The Namibian red desert was one of them. An ancient place whose dunes play seductively with the very waves of the Atlantic Ocean and where it is possible to find ephemeral lakes that look like mirages or some of the most dangerous elephants on the planet. Setting foot in the oldest desert in the world and watching the sunrise from the top of a dune was the first objective to achieve in Namibian lands.
To achieve this, it is necessary to travel to the immense Namib-Naukluft National Park. Of the four areas that comprise it, the most visited is Sesriem Sossusvlei, where you can find the dunes famous for their height and peculiar reddish color. This sand reached here from the neighboring Kalahari, transported by the Orange River which deposited it in the sea, and from there, thanks to the Benguela Current, it ended up on the coast, before the wind eventually dragged it inland. It is composed of quartz but also contains iron filings which, when oxidized, give the sand its characteristic red color that acquires different shades depending on the time of day.
The place par excellence to witness the sunrise is at the top of Dune 45. However, we warn you that you must wake up very early to arrive on time, since from Sesriem, where the park entrance is located, you have 45 kilometers of paved road. Climbing to the top of this dune is a difficult task due to its height, its inclination, the wind that lashes you incessantly, and the sand in which you sink again and again without remedy. Some manage to reach the summit and others stay halfway. But from either point, you must sit and enjoy the breathtaking spectacle that, as if by magic, unfolds before your eyes.
The curtain of dawn rises very slowly and the light of daybreak creeps timidly through the crack that opens on the horizon. The sun wakes up oblivious to your impatience, until the first rays of sunlight set the eastern face of the dunes ablaze while the other side still remains plunged in night. Unforgettable.
It seems difficult then that you would find something in that desert that would enchant you even more. But, without a doubt, the Namib still had more secrets in store…
To continue with the excitement, it is essential to go deeper into the park. The paved road only goes as far as kilometer 65; from there, sand-filled tracks are only accessible by 4×4. For the first time, we would test the strength of the 4×4 rented the day before in Windhoek, which would be our home for the next three weeks. If you go to Namibia on your own, the most adventurous way to travel the country is in a good 4×4 equipped with a rooftop tent. A French couple traveling in a small car, trying to avoid paying the amount of dollars the guides were asking for to continue, asked us to hop in our pickup to go to Sossusvlei and reminded us of one of the rewards of traveling on your own: the people you meet along the way.
With them, after a short walk, we reached Deadvlei where an inhospitable landscape literally leaves you open-mouthed. A dead vlei, dry for nearly nine hundred years, maintains a pristine white that contrasts with the ochre of the immense dunes surrounding it. On a salt bed rest petrified skeletons of acacias, unable to even decompose due to the lack of humidity and high temperatures.
Nowadays, if you are lucky enough, like us, to go just after the few rains that rarely fall on this desert, it is also possible to see small ephemeral lakes that emerge as if they were tiny oases. It is easier to cross paths with ostriches, oryx, or gazelles that seem to wander aimlessly in the middle of that sea of dunes.
Some practical information: Currency: 1 Namibian Dollar (NAD) = approx. €0.10 Where to sleep: If you want to arrive in time to see the sunrise from Dune 45, it is best to stay overnight at the public campsite in Sesriem, right after entering the National Park. In 2011 we paid 125 NAD per person per night. Do not expect great luxuries, it is a campsite, but it has electricity, a pool, a small shop with a modest restaurant, and the most spectacular starry sky seen to date. You can book in advance on the official website that manages all public campsites in Namibia www.nwr.com.na/sesriem_campsite.htm Entrance fee: Inevitably, to visit the Namib-Naukluft National Park, you have to pay entrance fees that help conserve the desert and prevent overcrowding. Two days for two people cost us 340 NAD. Fuel: The 4×4 consumes quite a lot and on this type of trip you will cover many kilometers. A liter of fuel in 2011 cost approximately 9.70 NAD, a little less than a euro. Essential: Sun protection, a hat and, believe it or not, warm clothes. If you travel in June, like us, during the day you will have an ideal temperature (around 20-25ºC) but it is winter there and at night the temperature drops sharply and it is unthinkably cold. Oh, and fill the pickup with plenty of water jugs. Watch out for: Our compact camera did not survive the desert sand that gets into every corner. We recommend keeping it very well protected and taking it out only when strictly necessary to avoid any scares. What was left todo: Visit the Sesriem Canyon, near the park entrance, to see the enormous gorge that the Tsauchab River has been shaping for years Flying over the desert in a small plane and seeing how it meets the sea is said to be an unforgettable experience, a bit expensive, but unforgettable
