Peaceful, easy, and elegant. This is Bern, the capital of Switzerland, whose old town, lovingly embraced by the Aare River, surprises visitors, and greatly so.
Modest, but fascinatingly majestic. Bern does not bother competing against the famous and busy Zurich, nor against the unquestionable beauty of Lucerne. She prefers not to give much publicity to her charms, show off her simplicity, and thus leave the tourist who arrives, often without great expectations, speechless.
Walking just a bit is enough to be dazzled by the beautiful historic center of Bern, named a World Heritage Site. With a curious medieval layout, this old town, in the form of a river peninsula being surrounded by a meander of the Aare River, is a true paradise designed for pedestrian enjoyment.
The must-sees in Bern
- Before preparing your stay in Bern, remember to take out travel insurance for Switzerland. In this country, the European Health Insurance Card does not cover you 100%, because healthcare is co-paid. I recommend including cancellation; it is too expensive a destination to lose reservations. Take advantage of this 5% discount at Mondo.
Here are some of the places to see in Bern to make you fall head over heels for the Swiss capital, which can be perfectly seen in a single day. But if you have many days in Switzerland, I recommend spending at least one night in Bern to enjoy it more calmly, discover more corners, and even take the odd excursion to the surroundings.
And now, I welcome you to the city of bears and fountains.
Kramgasse, Bern’s main artery
Although modest, Bern is proud to have the longest covered shopping avenue in Europe, also known as Lauben, the name given to the arcades that line up to six kilometers of the street. Arcades that not only serve to house shops, cafes, and restaurants, but also to protect the visitor from Bern’s almost everlasting rain and the summer sun.
The most famous stretch of Lauben is the one from the train station to the Nydeggbrücke bridge, specifically Kramgasse. If you are looking for the heart of Bern, you will find it here because it is in Kramgasse where this city beats.
Stroll leisurely through this historic and commercial artery where cars are prohibited, and you will find more attractions: historical basements with wine cellars accessed from curious wooden doors that open on the ground, elegant boutiques, lively terraces to taste the famous Swiss chocolates, shop windows to browse, and bicycles everywhere.
Follow in Einstein’s footsteps
Did you know that it was in Bern where the prestigious German scientist formulated the theory of relativity? Today it is possible to visit Albert Einstein’s house at number 49 Kramgasse, a few steps from the clock tower. There, in a second-floor apartment, he lived as a tenant between 1903 and 1905, along with his wife Mileva and their son Hans Albert.
Now you can see a recreation of the home, as well as access an exhibition about his biography and works. Albert Einstein’s house is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission costs 7 CHF for adults, 4 CHF between 8 and 15 years old, and 5 CHF if you have the Swiss Travel Pass.
You can also go say hello to the scientist and sit by his side for a little while on a bench. To do so, you will have to go to Rosengarten, the rose garden, where there is a sculpture that honors and remembers his time in Bern.
Additionally, from there, you will have the most beautiful panoramic view of Bern in the background, bathed by the Aare River. Rosengarten is especially beautiful in spring coinciding with the flowering, but the views are worth it all year round. It’s a good place to take a break, eat at the eponymous restaurant, and if you’re with children, enjoy watching them play in the playground there.
Fountains and more fountains
One of the icons of Bern are, without a doubt, its original fountains that give a special personality to the Swiss capital. There are nearly a hundred scattered throughout the city, but in Bern’s historic center, about thirteen historical fountains stand out. These are especially striking for their Renaissance ornamentation and for representing figures from popular culture, protagonists of fables, or historical figures.
Twelve of Bern’s most prominent fountains came from the hands of the German sculptor Hans Gieng, who shaped them back in the 16th century. He is the author, for example, of Kindlifresserbrunne, better known as the Ogre Fountain, located in Kornhausplatz. This famous fountain in Bern depicts a fearsome ogre eating a baby while holding other children in his hands.
Also very famous is the Zähringer fountain, which shows a bear protected with medieval armor and the banner of Bern. It dates from 1535 when it was erected as a tribute to Berchtold von Zähringer, founder of Bern, who, according to legend, had to shoot a bear while searching for the site to build the city.
Did you know that the water from these fountains is drinkable? Take advantage not only to admire them, but to refill your bottle and recreate those moments when the fountains of Bern were the central meeting point for the city’s inhabitants for various tasks.
Zytgloggeturm or clock tower
This is one of the most beautiful towers in Bern and the one that starts the famous Kramgasse avenue. It is also the living memory that Bern was a walled city, since this tower, which dates from the 13th century, was one of the defensive gates of access to the citadel.
The tower also served as a jail by housing a women’s prison for about a century, until it suffered a devastating fire in the 15th century. It was after this tragic event that the first of the two clocks that still decorate the main facade of the tower today was installed.
One of them is an incredible astronomical clock that, to this day, makes this construction one of the most photographed in Bern. Approximately four minutes before the hour, the ‘show’ starts during which, as expected, a bear figurine with a sword appears on the scene, among many others such as the rooster that crows when the hand reaches the hour.
If you want to see the mechanism and gears of this clock up close right when it is in that magical moment of the figurine parade, you can do so with this guided tour of Zytgloggeturm which takes you inside the tower. Additionally, you will have the opportunity to climb the 130 steps that lead through the interior to a platform that serves as a viewpoint.
Bern Cathedral
Another of the must-sees in Bern is its cathedral, a late Gothic delight that holds the title of being the tallest religious temple in Switzerland thanks to the 100-meter height reached by its tower spire. A curiosity is that the construction of the bell tower was stalled for nearly three centuries because, upon reaching 60 meters, it was feared that if it continued, it would not remain standing because the foundations were not trusted. It was finally in 1893 when it was successfully finished and reached the imposing height it boasts today.
However, do not be eclipsed by its tower and also pay attention to the representation of the Last Judgment that welcomes you above the main access door. Entrance is free; you only have to pay 5 CHF if you want to face the more than 300 steps that lead to the top of the tower. Be aware that the climb is not suitable for those suffering from claustrophobia, but the views, of course, are worth it.
There is an immense esplanade surrounding the Bern Cathedral. When I visited, I was lucky enough that a medieval fair was being held there, which gave the city an even more special feel. This location is chosen to host not only that fair but many other events, from the Christmas market to the weekly markets that fill the cathedral square with flowers, food, and fresh products on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
Bundeshaus
The elegant Federal Palace building will not go unnoticed during your getaway to Bern, thanks in part to its gigantic green dome.
If you decide not to go inside and stay outside, most likely something will be happening outside that catches your attention. In 2003, Bundesplatz was completely remodeled, creating an open-air space where ‘things happen’, such as the morning markets on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
If you go in summer, take the opportunity to cool off by crossing between the 26 jets, one for each Swiss canton, that emerge from the ground creating fun water games. In winter, a light and sound show is projected on the palace facade with three shows at 7:00 PM, 8:00 PM, and 9:00 PM. Also in winter, another Christmas market is set up here
Greet the bears at Bärenpark
Yes, real bears and not the ones in the fountains or the one that appears on the astronomical clock. By now, you will have realized that bears are part of Bern’s identity; they are its most prized symbol, appearing on its flag, on its coat of arms, in the legend about the city’s foundation, and are the origin of its name.
That is why it is not surprising (although it did surprise me) that a colony of bears lives in Bern, in Bärenpark, a pit on the banks of the Aare river. Apparently, this animal always lived in the area, but since 1513, they began to confine them for defense and as a symbol of power, until it eventually became a tradition.
Until 1857, these animals were located in the heart of the historic center and then moved to their current location. Currently, you can still see bears in Bern, specifically in Bärenpark, a pit on the banks of the Aare river. You only have to cross the Nydeggbrücke bridge to reach Bärenpark, a free facility open 24 hours a day where these plantigrade giants roam at will, or at least as freely as the 5,000 square meter extension of the park allows.
Zentrum Paul Klee Museum
If you have more than one day to visit Bern, it is a good idea to go and discover the most modern side of the city at the Zentrum Paul Klee museum. This gallery is located in an impressive avant-garde building with three waves of steel and glass, designed by the Italian architect Renzo Piano.
Inside, enjoy the work of the famous Swiss painter Paul Klee whose artistic style influenced by surrealism, cubism and expressionism was so special and personal that it does not fit into any specific movement. The entrance fee is 20 CHF for adults or free if you have the Swiss Travel Pass
How to get to Bern
Although Bern has an airport, there are currently no direct flights from Spain. The fastest and cheapest way, because it is easier to find low-cost flights, is to fly to Basel airport and from there you have only a direct one-hour train to your final destination. Moreover, the train leaves you right in the center.
Another way to get there is to fly to Zurich, where you can also take the train that takes you to Bern in about an hour. It would also be possible from Geneva, but it will take twice as long.
If you have chosen to rent a car, you can also drive from any of these three airports. Remember that to travel on Switzerland’s highways, you need an annual tax called a vignette, it costs 40 CHF, it is bought at gas stations or at borders, and it is stuck visibly on the vehicle’s window.
In case you prefer to move around Switzerland by train, I recommend buying the Swiss Travel Pass, a transport pass that entitles you to use the country’s public transport network, including several boats, as well as discounts on mountain trains and funiculars, free access to nearly 500 museums and places of interest. In addition, it allows you to ride the buses and trams, in this case in Bern.
One last option to reach Bern is to take the day trip to Bern from Zurich for an entire day which, in addition to the guided tour of the Swiss capital, includes other points of interest along the way such as, for example, a visit to a dairy farm.
Where to sleep in Bern
Sleeping in Bern is expensive. Honestly, staying in Switzerland is very expensive. The only way to lower this part of the budget is to look for hotels as far in advance as possible to find slightly more affordable prices.
But if you really want to minimize the accommodation budget for your visit to Bern to practically 0 euros, I recommend looking for a home exchange. Don’t know what I’m talking about?
But if you prefer a hotel or an apartment, I suggest two options for sleeping in Bern that have a good quality-price ratio. Also, you should know that for staying in hotels in Bern, it is very common for them to include a free transport card to move around the city at no cost.
If you want to stay in the heart of Bern, a good choice is the Best Western Plus Hotel Bern. In the case that you prefer an apartment with a kitchen and more space, check out Heart of Bern which also has a great location.
You can save money without leaving the center by staying at Bern Backpackers Hotel Glocke next to the clock tower. If you don’t mind sharing a bathroom, it will be even cheaper, although there are also rooms with private bathrooms.
Where to eat in Bern
The gastronomic offer is very varied, so you will have no problem choosing where to eat in Bern. I can only tell you about the only restaurant I tried. Have lunch with views of Bern’s rooftops, and without your wallet trembling, at the Grosse Schanze restaurant (Parkterrasse 10), next to the train station. It has a basic but sufficient lunch menu for about €15, which I already tell you is a pretty good price for Switzerland.
What to see in the surroundings of Bern
Solothurn
The charming city of Solothurn, or Solothurn, only half an hour from Bern, is a little gem that goes unnoticed by most tourists. Don’t make that mistake and save time to discover the most beautiful baroque city in all of Switzerland. As soon as you cross the fortified medieval Basel gate, you will believe you have changed countries. The beautiful staircase giving access to the elegant St. Ursen Cathedral immediately transports you to Italy.
Set out for a walk through its picturesque pedestrian historic center full of colorful fountains in the style of those in Bern and churches and enjoy its lively atmosphere on the banks of the Aare River. Another thing it has in common with Bern is a tower with a clock included. Here I do recommend a traditional Swiss food restaurant that I loved. It is called Jägerstübli (Stalden, 6), they have a delicious cheese fondue at more or less reasonable prices.
Interlaken
It is very much worth visiting one of the most beautiful regions in the entire country with lakes, legendary mountain peaks like the Jungfrau, among others, waterfalls everywhere in Lauterbrunnen and incredible postcard landscapes. There is so much to see in Interlaken, so in this case, to explore the area thoroughly, we are talking about more than just a day trip from Bern. If you have little time, I recommend stopping in Thun, a medieval city with a castle included, perfect for a day trip from Bern.
Lucerne
A little further away, just over an hour by direct train, the delightful Lucerne awaits you with its covered bridges, its swans sailing on Lake Lucerne and two essential Swiss peaks such as Pilatus and Rigi.
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