And you arrive at Bellver de Cerdanya, another of those charming villages to see in La Cerdanya, although it could be any other destination, another village with a medieval air, also with cobbled streets and wooden shutters bursting with flowers.
How many have you visited? How many do you still have to discover? Of course, as soon as you get out of the car, you prepare your camera to immortalize each and every corner of Bellver de la Cerdanya, because you have heard that it is one of the most beautiful towns in the Catalan Pyrenees.
The mere fact of being surrounded by the impressive setting of the Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park makes Bellver de Cerdanya add one more well-worn label to the list of ingredients to be one of the must-see villages of the Catalan Cerdanya, the label of a privileged natural environment.
Bellver de Cerdanya and that ‘something’ that makes it special
Label after label after label… But then, what is there to see in Bellver de Cerdanya that is special, different from the rest? Wrong. It is not just about what to see, but rather about the history accumulated beneath those cobbled alleys of its old town and how you felt as you walked through them.
Because in the end traveling is also about feeling, not just about collecting destinations full of inspiring adjectives and taking idyllic photos for your social media. So ask yourself if you enjoyed taking the photos of this postcard village, if you remember the warmth of the sun’s rays as you looked out from the viewpoint where a castle stood centuries ago, or if you still find yourself smiling in silence at the memory of how good that beer you had in its main square tasted.
Bellver de Cerdanya, what to see in the Old Quarter
And now, I will tell you what to see in Bellver de Cerdanya, one of the most charming villages in the Catalan Pyrenees. Specifically, what to see in what is known as its Old Quarter or Plaza district where most of the attractions of this municipality are concentrated, formed by several hubs, hamlets, and farmhouses that make up what is known as the capital of the Batllia, a sub-region within La Cerdanya.
But beware, part of the charm that Bellver exudes lies in what its stones tell, the remains of its medieval wall, those remnants of history that will whisper to you what happened in its streets. And the fact is that this town had, and still has, ‘something’ that led to the construction of the castle on top of the hill, with the Segre river at its feet, from where a prominent panoramic view was commanded. This is because Bellver de Cerdanya was strategically located in the middle of the Royal Road (Camí Real) that linked La Seu d’Urgell with Puigcerdà.
Nothing remains of that castle now, beyond its cistern, as in 1655 it was destroyed by a gunpowder explosion after a fateful lightning strike. An incident that not only left Bellver without its fortification but also caused the death of three people. Today, in this location, you will find the Jaume Vila viewpoint or castle viewpoint to look out from, over the remains of the wall, to contemplate the soothing views of this beautiful corner of the Catalan Pyrenees.
That special ‘something’ of Bellver de Cerdanya also meant that the Cathars stopped here to sack it time and again even before it was officially founded in 1225 by Nunó Sanç who granted it the Town Charter. King James I already felt that special ‘something’ of Bellver de Cerdanya back then, so much so that he decided to protect it by raising a wall and building towers.
The best example of these is the Prison Tower which still stands in the charming Plaza del Portal, one of the two old entrances to the old walled enclosure, where the Joan Alay climb also catches the eye, now equipped with stairs to facilitate the ‘ascent’ to the heart of the village.
Even the witches yielded to the charm of that ‘something’ of Bellver de Cerdanya according to the legend of Aldonça Rossa, the little witch of La Cerdanya, who in 1620 was put on trial by the Inquisition in the Plaza Mayor del 27 de abril. A village neighbor denounced what was then barely a 12-year-old girl turned into a sort of witch and healer who claimed to fly over the Malniu pond.
A few years later, the French troops were also unable to resist the spell of that ‘something’ about this village and ended up occupying it for the first time for six long years at the end of the 17th century. From that time remains the Pau Claris square where a kind of tower was built as a defensive bastion by the Marquis of Vauban, Sébastien Le Prestre, the same person who ordered its demolition before retreating. This famous French military engineer and architect built several defensive structures similar to this one, 12 of which were designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2008.
And returning to that special ‘something’ of Bellver de la Cerdanya that has been attracting bits of history and all kinds of events, it cannot be ignored that it was also the setting for other revolts and conflicts such as those in the 15th century led by the Nyerros and the Cadells, bandits and nobles in continuous feudal confrontation.
The Plaza Mayor 27 de abril and the events of Bellver de Cerdanya
If you also want to feel that ‘something’, you will inevitably have to go to the soul of this village, the Plaza Mayor 27 de abril. I don’t know if you will be able to feel that irresistible attraction here or not, but you will certainly travel back to the Middle Ages suddenly, contemplating its arches and porticos that give it even a monastic air as if it were a cloister.
From whatever perspective you look at it, the main square of Bellver de Cerdanya is a real delight where you can stop for a drink and let time stand still while you admire its beauty and your gaze wanders among the arcades.
Give yourself time to savor it, especially if you go during the week when tourists are few and you can taste its peacefulness. Revel in its details like the symbols of a cross and a mortar carved into the wood of one of the lintels, indicating that there was a pharmacy there back in the Middle Ages, when this square was the nerve center of Bellver de Cerdanya, the place where everything happened, from the market and fairs to that Inquisition trial against the little witch (Bruixeta) of Bellver.
The old Customs House was also located here, whose 16th-century building has now been restored and is the seat of the town hall. At the customs house, taxes and fees were collected from merchants who not only sold their products there, but also from those passing through the Cami Real, a strategic commercial route.
Next to the square you will see the church of Sant Jaume, the patron saint of the town, whose origins date back to the 13th century. This simple temple is considered a fine example of Catalan rural Gothic and stands out above all for its bell tower with a clock visible from almost any corner of Bellver.
If you find it curious that this main square is named after a date, then you will be interested to know that we return once again to that ‘something’ about Bellver de la Cerdanya that attracts events and stories. On April 27, 1937, the town’s residents fired from the wall until they killed Antonio Martín Escudero, ‘El cojo de Málaga’.
This famous leader of the CNT had taken control of Puigcerdà after Primo de Rivera’s coup d’état. The region did not accept it very well, even less so when, in August 1936, the revolutionary committee led by Escudero murdered a resident of the town because of his ‘right-wing’ political status. If the atmosphere was already heated, it finished igniting when ‘El cojo de Málaga’ showed his intention to take control of livestock production to supply the front. The measure again aroused the rejection of the residents of Bellver, especially its livestock farmers who, with the support of the mayor, showed their indignation.
The tension between Escudero and the town of Bellver de la Cerdanya ended up exploding that April 27, 1937 when the anarchist leader sent a battalion of 150 men to raid the town. However, there he ran into the resistance of the people and the Republican guards who halted the attack. ‘El cojo de Málaga’ lost his life in this skirmish due to shots from one of the residents who was never identified.
But the Civil War left more marks on the region, which suffered bombings by the Francoist air force, such as the one that left 25 dead in neighboring Puigerdà. During your walk through the old quarter of Bellver de Cerdanya you can see an air-raid shelter under Ca les Monges where the inhabitants ran to take cover during attacks. Only once was the town a direct target of the bombings which, fortunately, only left some mares grazing by the Segre river as victims.
In the footsteps of Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer
Much more pleasant is what is found right in front of this shelter: Bécquer square, which pays tribute to the visit of the illustrious poet to this town. Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer also succumbed to that ‘something’ of Bellver de Cerdanya and decided to spend two months here at the end of 1860 in search of the pure air of the Pyrenees that could alleviate his tuberculosis symptoms.
A time during which the Sevillian poet stayed at the Cal Patano inn, on Amargura Street, and which he took advantage of to be inspired by the streets and corners of Bellver when writing ‘The Devil’s Cross’. Today, a sculpture by Philippe Lavaill, installed in 2013 and featuring the famous swallows, commemorates Bécquer’s time in this town. In summer, the Bellver town hall organizes a thematic route to follow in Bécquer’s footsteps.
How to visit Bellver de Cerdanya
The best way to get to know the attractions of the old quarter of Bellver is to get lost on foot through its narrow streets, as it is very small and manageable. In addition, along the way, you will find explanatory signs that will bring you closer to the history of this town. Go with your eyes wide open because this town is dotted with details that give it even more charm.
Another very interesting option is to get the tourist audio guide of Bellver de Cerdanya, an innovative card that costs only €2 which comes with a QR code to capture with your mobile phone or tablet and will give you access to all the relevant information of the municipality. It is available in Spanish, Catalan and English.
You can buy the audio guide at the tourist office located in Plaza Sant Roc, at Hotel Bellavista , Crta. de Puigcerdà, 45, and at Hotel Bon Repòs. During the summer months, you can also buy it at the Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park Interpretation Center at number 5 de la Font street, in nearby Talló.
What to see near Bellver de Cerdanya
After discovering the history of the Old Quarter, you have a lot to see and do in the surroundings of Bellver de Cerdanya. Remember that the municipality alone is made up of up to 12 population centers such as Bor, Baltarga, Beders or Pedrá with their respective Romanesque churches. But if there is a place that should be an almost mandatory visit, it is Talló, one of the most prominent villages in the municipality, where the church of Santa María de Talló is located, known as the cathedral of Cerdanya.
Did you know that next to this church passes the Way of St. James, known there as Camí de San Jaume? Yes, from La Cerdanya it is also possible to make a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. We encourage you to do the simple but very pleasant section that goes from Santa María de Talló to the hermitage of Nostra Senyora de Quadres, in Isovol, following the course of the Segre river and passing through Baltarga and Riu de Santa Maria, two of the villages belonging to Bellver de Cerdanya.
Coming to the Catalan Pyrenees, to the Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park and not hiking in La Cerdanya would be almost a crime. The options for walking here are most varied, from more demanding itineraries to simple walks ideal for doing with children. Specifically, one of the 12 stages of the Route of the Cathars, or the Camí dels Bons Homes, a long-distance trans-Pyrenean trail that takes you to Foix, in France, passes through Bellver de Cerdanya.
The area is also dotted with grottoes and caves that offer a lot, from practicing spelunking to simply learning about the legends that some hide. Perhaps the easiest to visit is Cova d’Anes which can even be accessed with children, although they should be at least six years old.
It would also be very interesting to visit the L’Ingla Valley which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site thanks to the value of the cave paintings found there. Along the way, you can stop at the Cap del Ras viewpoint and be amazed by the views.
¿Sabías que puedes sobrevolar la Cerdanya en globo? A solo 15 minutos de Bellver, puedes vivir una experiencia inolvidable que yo me quedé con ganas de hacer: paseo en globo por el cielo de La Cerdaña. Volar sobre el valle del Segre y admirar a vista de pájaro los paisajes del Pirineo tiene que ser una delicia. Pero además en esta excursión en globo por La Cerdaña desayunarás en el aire, brindarás con cava, te harán todo un reportaje fotográfico y además la ida y la vuelta será en un 4x4.
Where to sleep in Bellver de Cerdanya
If you want to stay in a hotel in Bellver de Cerdanya, the offer is wide whether you want to stay in the heart of the old town, or if you prefer to rest in a farmhouse in the middle of the countryside, in an apartment or in a hotel with breakfast.
In my case, I did not stay overnight in the town, as I visited it from neighboring Prullans, another of the charming villages of La Cerdanya. There I stayed at Cerdanya Ecoresort which I recommend without any doubt if you are looking to disconnect in the middle of nature, in this complex that combines camping, apartments and hotel rooms with all the comforts including a heated pool, a complete spa and many activities to connect with yourself and with nature. In addition, its ecological consciousness carries over even to its restaurant table and if you travel with children its farm, its mini-club and the activities they organize will be an extra point.
Where Bellver de Cerdanya is located and how to get there
This bucolic village, on the banks of the Segre river, belongs to Lleida, in the region of Baixa Cerdanya and is protected by the impressive cliffs of the Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park, as you can see in this map of Bellver de Cerdanya.
From Madrid, you will arrive in about seven hours by car, while from Barcelona it will take only two hours. If you do not have your own vehicle, you can take a train to Puigcerdà and from there a bus that takes you to Bellver in about 20 minutes.
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